ken

They just come up with a version for IPAD, and for 37mm mount. 
Looks very interesting. 

IMO, EF85 1.8 works fine and the widest basically, but EF100 f2 is better a little bit in all, except wide angle.

I am pretty sure, closer focus distance would make less ratio in my experience until I got a D.O. 16F ana lens.
D.O. lens actually is a shortened lens from Sankor/Singer/Eiki 16F.  Make the the 2x lens become about 1.6x when focus in minimum distance.  So the D.O. lens can focus to closer less than 1m.   But it is lack of infinity ability.  I just add a negative lens in front to let it is able to focus to infinity. And the advantage is that it can take wider lens, basically as wide as 16H.

I did not see this lens marked as ISCORAMA, which is 1.5X and single focus lens to my knowledge.  The 1.33x lens has less value at least  IMO.

$700USD and not even ended yet!  The world's gone mad.
 
I actually really like those flares.  particularly when he closes down the aperture.  Begging for a little ff58 with a 3x oval on the back of it.
 

How are you finding the moondog?  
 
  

+1 for vintage and for Helios 44-2 recommendation...it is a perfect pairing for so many anamorphics.
Nikkor's can be good (older non Ai versions) as most have warm, non MC coatings that compliment warm flaring lenses such as iscomorphot s8/16 - iscorama - kowa B&H etc. Downside is that when stopped down most Nikkor's have hexagonal aperture, cutting into the oval bokeh shape caused by the anamorphic up front.
Helios 44 has a nice round aperture throughout stops due to blade shape/number (usually 8, or 13 on early silver versions)

Kowa B&H Close Focus Mod & other 'Tweaks'
 
Recently I picked up a very cheap Kowa B&H that needed a lot of internal cleaning and a fresh re-lube. Since it was my 'Spare' Kowa, I have a chance to illustrate/share my findings on some simple modifications that I discovered a couple of years ago on another lens. Since I already have a 'Standard' Kowa to compare with, it should prove easier to illustrate the difference in performance before & after modifying such a lens.
These principles will work on many lenses of this type that share a similar construction.
Following these steps are at your own risk.
 
The modifications allow:
* Minimum focus to be reduced from 5 feet down to 3 feet.
* Reduction/elimination of 'Veiling Flare/ Barrel Glow' that is common with Kowa lens types.
* Overall sharpness improvement.
 
Close Focus:
To achieve closer focus from the 5 foot factory standard is pretty easy.The focus mechanism transport is done by a helicoid pushing/pulling the front element that is seated within a tube, guided by brass tabs/stoppers within slots in the housing.These brass tabs/stoppers ensure that the linear travel is straight and true (ensuring correct alignment with rear optic). By cutting these tabs to be shorter, the travel of the front optic assembly is allowed to seat closer to the body - allowing closer distance between front and rear optic.
This allows an increase in optic proximity to be achieved. This modification effectively allows the focus ring to turn to it's maximum close focus position, and not restricted by factory limits.
 
 
 
 
Veiling Flare/ Barrel Glow - Reduction:
 
A common artefact of Kowa lenses in bright light situations seems to be a strong Veiling glare. It is similar to a strong vignette of light that happens when the front optic is hit with off-axis light. Although this can be a desirable artefact, often it is too overpowering to the image when purposely flashing the lens to pop a flare for effect.
A simple solution I found is to blacken the edge of the front optic - this is the edge that gets hit by light and pools the image with a 'Barrel glow'.
Taking a fine tipped marker pen does the job well (without needing to disassemble lens) - even better would be black paint and a fine brush and a steady hand if you wanted to eliminate glow completely. I personally tried the marker pen method, as you can carefully remove or thin the ink with a tiny amount of lighter fluid on a brush - creating a reduction/dulling effect, rather than remove the glow effect completely. At least it is good to know how to minimize the glow effect, especially when shooting in bright sunlight without a mattebox and you don't want everything to be washed out all the time.
 

 
Overall Sharpness Improvement:
This came from a few year back when playing on another Kowa lens and is the nicest find I've discovered so far (about most projection anamorphic lenses). I found that when removing the brass tabs that are used for alignment, you can separate the front and rear optic assembly for cleaning etc.
But If you do not re-install the tabs into the pre-set positions (using the screw holes aligned in the factory) - you can often tweak the alignment and fine focus to be even sharper.
 

As a pure guess, I can only presume that back in the day when most of these lenses were made the tolerances for alignment were only considered for image projection, rather than image acquisition (iscorama/bolex types an exception) I found that by freehand rotating the front optic assembly (when attached to camera) - It is possible to achieve more finite sharpness from the alignment. Using high magnification on my camera and additional magnification on my EVF + focus peaking at a reference at infinity - it was possible to rotate the front element assembly to what is probably fractions of a millimetre from the factory alignment, then glue the brass tabs into a very slightly new position. Glue works well, as it does not require additional holes to be drilled to re-seat the brass tabs, or forever alter the lens. The glue does not bear any load of consequence, mealy seats the tabs to prevent rotation.
The lens can be easily returned to its original alignment by dissolving the glue with solvent and returning the tabs to factory position. I’ve found that the very slightest tweak to factory alignment in 3 out of the 4 of these Kowa lens types I've owned, improves the sharpness noticeably.
 

I see,
 
Very complex thing. Need perfect distance with rear attachment and prime to the front one or astigmatism comes as hell.
There are other way: Fix the taking lens to the rear ANA and make a mechanism that the block move in-out of the camera. This is how anamorphic Lomo primes works.
Still very complex because the taking lens only need move a few mm from the sensor (Lomo´s focus ring have a pin that make this little move to the spherical block), and the cylindrical rear lens need move too much. 
 
good luck

My understanding is they are all share the same optics from the sizes told.   The difference might be coatings.

4M=+0.25, since 2M=+0.5, 1M=+1, 0.5M=+2....

I was told SLR lenses are made by http://www.zyoptics.net/ from China.
So the price should have lots of drop space.

The B&L lens I owned before is not focusable.  The focus ring is fake.
I would say for the same price lens to me with similar size/weigh, ISCO HD attachment has 10 times better.  There  was a sample picture I posted before: http://www.eoshd.com/comments/topic/8047-need-help-on-anamorphic-lens/

Do not buy these useless beasts. They are too stubborn and clumsy. My Rectimascop 64/2X is sitting on the shelf looking all stupid at me.

The codec itself doesn't affect image quality much. It's more about how the cameras process its raw information into that codec. 
From what I know, here's how I'd rate the cameras
Sharpness:
GH4 / NX1 (4k) BMPCC GH4 (1080p) NX1 / a6000 (1080p) Gradeability:
BMPCC (by a large margin) GH4 / a6000 NX1 Colour (this is really subjective):
BMPCC NX1 a6000 GH4 Low light:
a6000 BMPCC GH4 / NX1 Dynamic Range:
BMPCC a6000 GH4 NX1

I found the cheapest way to get a 72mm +0.5 diopter filter lens, which is less than $20.
Bought a Tamron Close Up Adapter for 28-200mm Lens and a 72mm uv filter, $0.99--the cheapest one.  Through out the UV filter's glass and replace with the Tamron glass, which is easy to take apart.  Their size fits perfectly. 

I found the cheapest way to get a 72mm +0.5 diopter filter lens, which is less than $20.
Bought a Tamron Close Up Adapter for 28-200mm Lens and a 72mm uv filter, $0.99--the cheapest one.  Through out the UV filter's glass and replace with the Tamron glass, which is easy to take apart.  Their size fits perfectly. 

I found the cheapest way to get a 72mm +0.5 diopter filter lens, which is less than $20.
Bought a Tamron Close Up Adapter for 28-200mm Lens and a 72mm uv filter, $0.99--the cheapest one.  Through out the UV filter's glass and replace with the Tamron glass, which is easy to take apart.  Their size fits perfectly. 

VM 1.5x is really a tiny baby, focus through, relatively cheap and good quality, compared to many normal size lenses.

I posted this in my other thread, but it's kind of hidden and not everyone would think of looking there. I've spent the past few weeks working on reviewing the Rectilux 3FF-W, paired with a Kowa B&H inside. Taking lenses are Contax Zeiss and an old Nikon which I regret picking up. Camera is the Canon 5D3, shooting RAW everytime.
There are charts, flares, vignetting and a real world test there. Check the video and a written review at http://www.tferradans.com/blog/?p=7742
Subscribe to my channel (http://youtube.com/tferradans) for upcoming reviews and anamorphic content!

Hi Ken, the 40mm diopter is for the Baby Hypergonar, one of the smallest or smallest anamorphic lens around. 
 

​I think you mean the Global Shipping Program and their ridiculous over charging. In reality it just means the seller doesn't want to sell outside of the US. It's like a polite way of saying, "sure, I'll sell to you, but I'm gonna make sure it hurts.".
Just refuse to buy anything that uses the global shipping policy. I have.

​

​No, it's the C60172 for PD150/VX200o Bayonet Mount Version with a glued on 58mm Thread for the taking Lens.
I guess it's the sharpness of the Pani Lens that can't be hurt by the Centurys softness.
Here is a Clip mostly shot with 2x Cinelux + FM and some 1,33x Century in the Mix:
For example the second and third shots are Century, also the first flare in the Basement @ 1:08, stairway flare @ 1:58 and 2:07-2:22
with less grading:
 
 
 

Please see pics.  the right one with filter thread(non rotating) added.  Also many batch of them have no FL mark on anamorphic lens.

No, all the anamorphic lens part are the same.  The focus length is just for different size of screen or movie theater use.