Cosimo murgolo

One chapter at a time, I'm translating to english my graduation work which is 90% focused on anamorphics. I hope it brings some light onto common questions as well as works as a good follow-up read after the original EOSHD Anamorphic's Shooter Guide.
I'll keep updating the links to each chapter on this post, please feel free to comment and correct me along the way. There are 22 chapters/topics and roughly a hundred pages.
WHO AM I AND WHAT IS THIS ABOUT?
http://www.tferradans.com/blog/?p=7166
 INTRODUCTIONhttp://www.tferradans.com/blog/?p=7174 LENS RESEARCHhttp://www.tferradans.com/blog/?p=7195 a ) FOCUS THROUGH (1.33x)http://www.tferradans.com/blog/?p=7204b ) ISCORAMAS (1.5x)http://www.tferradans.com/blog/?p=7225c ) DOUBLE FOCUS (2x)http://www.tferradans.com/blog/?p=7235d ) CINE LENSES (2x)http://www.tferradans.com/blog/?p=7260e ) DAMAGE AND SERVICINGhttp://www.tferradans.com/blog/?p=7278f ) DIOPTERS AND CLOSE UPShttp://www.tferradans.com/blog/?p=7282g ) LENS-YCLOPEDIAhttp://www.tferradans.com/blog/?p=7280h ) FAKING THE LOOKhttp://www.tferradans.com/blog/?p=7283 MAGICLANTERN RAWhttp://www.tferradans.com/blog/?p=7304 a ) CUSTOM CROPMARKShttp://www.tferradans.com/blog/?p=7305 ZONA SSPhttp://www.tferradans.com/blog/?p=7310 a ) LOMO: EPISODE 01http://www.tferradans.com/blog/?p=7311b ) ISCORAMAS: EPISODE 02http://www.tferradans.com/blog/?p=7317 THE PROCESShttp://www.tferradans.com/blog/?p=7318 a ) CONCEPT DEVELOPMENT
http://www.tferradans.com/blog/?p=7319b ) ON SET PREVIEW
http://www.tferradans.com/blog/?p=7320c ) WORKFLOW CONCLUSIONBIBLIOGRAPHY

Hi all, check out our newest short film "In Good Company"
 
 
It's quite creepy!
 
 
watch it here:

Here's a short vacation video I shot on my a6000.  Lenses used were the Zeiss 24mm 1.8, Sony 50mm 1.8, and Sony 10-18mm F4.  Coming from the NEX-6 I appreciated the a6000's autofocus speed and accuracy quite a bit.  I also used the face detection focus tracking a couple times and it worked pretty well.  Still wishing we could record in XAVC / slog2 though like the A7s.
 

Kristoferman, some of the more affordable rail systems I've seen are the Jag35 ones, like this one: http://jag35.com/universal-baseplate.html
 
I have this older version myself: http://jag35.com/dslr-baseplate-basic.html
Been using it with a follow focus. Can't complain, solidly built. From what I've seen, Jag35 seems to be a bit lower priced than a lot of other video gear, yet the products I've seen haven't skimped on quality.

I feel you man. My storage server (that contains all my data) is acting up and I'm looking at throwing in big bucks on that now, to build a new storage setup...
 
So I haven't yet pulled the trigger on the FM lens module, although I really would want Santa to bring it to me. Especially since after I saw Häns footage! Soon... Soon...

A bit more extensive. Shot on the Helios 44 full frame with 1.2x digital zoom enabled. Cropped to 2.66.

My iscorama just lost it's value...  goes to show how powerful an 85mm + full frame + 2x ovals + 2.66 :1 is!

I imagine the front face is almost flat and will therefore catch the light at certain angles.  Bear in mind the light causing the flare is the only light in the room and that flare wouldnt be very noticeable with more light in the room - i bet he was at 16000iso to bring that flare up!
 
I'm seeing that nasty distortion from the 3.55:1 aspect ratio the 16:9 sensor is deivering - not as strong as what we'll see form the cinelux, but on pans it seems rather distracting.  I'm dreading this thread as more and more tests show up - it means I'll need to get the mastercard out at this rate! 

Focus throw test. Of course it's raining today in New Mexico (of all days) so tests will have to happen on the weekend. After cranking the lens down with a flat head, the swaying is gone. Focusing isn't bad at all. 58mm Helios barely vignettes full frame (cropped to 2.66). Cropping to 2.66 helps with the edge distortion as well. The flare in the first video might have come from the slightly dimmed overhead light or my iPhone. Regardless I don't know if it came from the front element or the small space between my anamorphic and prime. In shooting around the house, shooting into direct light seems to cause some softening and glow around light sources, due to the HUGE front element. As mentioned before, it seems this lens is sharp when it counts, but promotes the organic nature of anamorphic. Very satisfied.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xh_IGpE-JGA&list=UUBWpVAaEn9CvmidPcK_mFHw 
 
After work yesterday, drove past the Auckland Domain. 
Weather was too good to pass up the opportunity to shoot something. 
Although it got cold really fast again. Can't believe its supposed to be summer. 
 
Slowly getting used to the dual focusing. I found myself rushing a little bit in this kind of 
situation because I wanted to get shots while the sun was still up. 

Anyone plan on using this with a B&H Kowa?  If so, could you make a video on how to mount it well?

Just received the lens but unfortunately I'm at work. I'll do some tests tonight/tomorrow and get something up! Packaged really well. Solid build, slightly metallic focus feel but very solid. All of the grub screws are snug and a hex key is included for the small screws on the barrel. Caps included as well as a silver collar which seems to be for smaller anamorphics. The small grub screws on the barrel itself could be replaced fairly easily with longer, stronger ones for smaller anamorphics. More later.

Yes, I think Anamorphicshop said there is a focus gear in the works next year. I believe the diameter is 88mm (away from FM lens to check at the moment). It will be a relatively wide gear so it it still meshes with a standard drive gear on a follow focus when it travels in and out on the FM. You could also make your own by using two wide focus ties placed side by side...but they won't be seamless and might not allow full range of focus. As mentioned above, RAF camera would make a nice metal gear as a custom job.

Initial mounting was really easy. Included was a small silver aluminum collar. The Hypergonar I own tapers towards the back so as a work around, I focused the anamorphic to infinity, gaffed the collar onto the anamorphic and slid it into the FM lens. Used the included hex key to clamp down on the collar and slid onto my crappy plastic cage. I'll need to figure out a more secure mount with the 1/4" threaded clamp. The weight of the focus module causes it to swing loose. Some pictures:

https://www.dropbox.com/s/jlv1ubwd92kl8zw/Photo%20Dec%2004%2C%201%2057%2054%20AM.jpg?dl=0

https://www.dropbox.com/s/ox1t8vwdzqnnekz/Photo%20Dec%2004%2C%201%2057%2021%20AM.jpg?dl=0
 
https://www.dropbox.com/s/0lyh6dqswxqsfez/Photo%20Dec%2004%2C%201%2057%2009%20AM.jpg?dl=0

And a short clip before the batteries died. Jupiter 9 85mm f2 @ f2. Hypergonar Bernoist Berthoit Anamorphic. Full frame on the A7s. Quick Lut thrown on. Exported as 3840 x 1080 ProRes 444.




Download the original for best quality.

Screengrabs from ProRes Master

https://www.dropbox.com/s/bwe5gpq0z115nmo/Screen%20Shot%202014-12-04%20at%202.45.36%20AM.png?dl=0  
https://www.dropbox.com/s/zvp8rwnlge2x3wo/Screen%20Shot%202014-12-04%20at%202.45.50%20AM.png?dl=0

First impressions:
SHARP! So glad it's so sharp
Focus throw feels huge but it's only the size of the lens. Focusing is really a breeze.
Mounting was easy, easy to adjust anamorphic leveling.
The rear collar could be a bit wider (ie two 1/4" holes) to keep the heavy lens assembly from swaying. Nothing a little rubber can't fix.

More shooting tomorrow!

FM lens + ES Cinelux + Olympus 85mm on Full Frame.

Nothing exciting at all here, unedited and boring shots - but only had a spare 10mins to give the FM a quick spin. Tested everything wide open at f.2 on Olympus OM 85mm to see if wide aperture would introduce any fringe or edge nasties when the FM was attached, pleased to confirm that everything looks pretty clean and sharp. ( although .h264 compression for Vimeo has robbed it's true 'wow' sharpness)...so please download/ view 'original' file

Very shallow depth of field when wide open at f.2 (perhaps too shallow for practical use most of the time) and the 2x bokeh when used with 85mm on full frame is pretty darn stretchy. Goes to show that sensible stopping down would make this setup even sharper whilst still maintaining plenty of attractive defocus.

Footage was shot 1600x1200 ML raw on 5Dmk3 in 4:3 aspect, resulting in 3200x1200 8:3 (2.61) unsqueezed.This seems like an ideal aspect to shoot at - as it seems to bypass the edge 'warp' that people have noticed on the ES Cinelux when panning.

Everything is handheld, racking focus by hand also...to prove it can be relatively 'run & gun'.
The near focus abilities are very impressive, with practice it is pretty easy to do a full range rack focus by hand but a focus gear would be of great benefit when using in the real world for narrative work.

So initial quick test is very promising indeed...noticed a very slight 'ghost' or 'glow' to extreme contrast edges, but almost definitely due to being wide open and the taking lens not being 100% light tight or aligned when shimmed against the FM rear.

In general the FM lens seems to take the edge off the cinelux's clinical sharpness somehow, I suspect the fact that the light is now passing through extra glass means a subtle contrast lift and very slight softening to the image - resulting in a more filmic look, whilst still being plenty sharp.

I did notice an unforeseen issue - it is pretty easy to knock the taking lens focus when adjusting aperture on taking lens. A tiny amount is enough to take the 'calibrated' focus from the FM lens - resulting in a non pin sharp result. Think the easiest way to remedy is to tape the taking lens focus in its fixed position with electrical tape when setting up for FM lens.

More proper testing to come, just thought I'd throw this up in case someone was 'on the fence' about how usable the FM lens is when handheld and pushed to f2 on full frame.

Magic Lantern is the only reason that is keeping me working with the 5d  at the moment, I enjoy fiddling with raw, although is tiring and takes a lot of space, but the results are still worth it.
The 5d it's quite a bulky camera, not easy to take it around with you all the time, I would love to have something light that fits in my pocket.
I was thinking to get the panasonic GX7 when I get some money.
Ciao ;)

I like it! 
But I prefer to work with Panasonic G6 over a 5D MkIII 95% of the times. It's a matter of taste, of course there is not a perfect camera that fit all works. 
Last week I worked with a Canon 60D because the DOP that called me has that and did not want to use my camera. Other times I worked with a 5DMkII and MkIII, I had a T3i and a 70D...
I admit I like Canon's menu better then Panasonic, but I like Panasonic image better then Canon because it's sharper and 60p in 1080 is something I use often.
With Panasonic I have a better quality in handheld shots thanks to the smaller body, I can use lot of lenses (FD are superb)... I have the EVF and the focus peaking... it's something I cannot work without.
 

maybe you should see this clip too, I think it's ok, don't you? I like it.
I think that in the right hands any camera can be a good weapon.
Ciao! ;)

I should give up the reviews and just say that! Would be much easier!

maybe you should see this clip too, I think it's ok, don't you? I like it.
I think that in the right hands any camera can be a good weapon.
Ciao! ;)

I'm very excited about this lens.  Only recently have I been seeing optical characteristics from my iscorama that I feel could be better.  The cinelux does this - it;s drastically sharper than the isco 36 from edge to edge on full frame it would appear.  ````so focusing it with this unit should deliver maybe one of the sharpest anamorphic systems available. - assuming they didnt get the two front elements drastically wrong!
 
One of the primary concerns i see is the rotating front element.  @hans-Punk mentioned earlier in a previous topic that he is intending on fitting a uv filter straight away - since any coating damage or build up of grease can show up during focus pulls where flaring might be present. - the flares change during focusing creating a rather distracting look.  Not a horrific problem but would have been really nice if that front element didnt rotate.  
 
I also agree (based on my experience using the iscorama 36 (with a rotating front optic) that it might be wise to use a UV filter, regularly changing them as they get dirty, to limit the amount of contact the front optic has with pollen, stray fingers or other contaminations that can make contact with that big front optic face.
 
 
I was really pleased to see they included a focus scale on the unit - something the original prototype we've seen previously didnt show.
 
 
 
I am personally trying to locate a suitable short anamorphic that can sit intio the unit and allow the taking lens to also sit into the fm module barrel.  this will be a great way to shorten the total length.   

This time I hope it's going to be more useful and constructive to everyone.
Andy you are welcome  to share your  professional experiences whenever you like there is no need to say that of course.
I hope people realize that everyone can learn from the other and we as human need each others help to grow up in life. 
Thanks!