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barefoot

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Posts posted by barefoot

  1. Tried out FFmpeg. Seems to work quite well. Insane how big the file becomes.

    I was going to try out the Rocky Mountains too (downloaded RMMC-0.2.00.0-osx64-en.zip) but couldn't find the .exe file anywhere. Any advice?

    Never mind. Wrong file. =)

  2. Tried out FFmpeg. Seems to work quite well. Insane how big the file becomes.

    I was going to try out the Rocky Mountains too (downloaded RMMC-0.2.00.0-osx64-en.zip) but couldn't find the .exe file anywhere. Any advice?

  3. Best to dual boot from separate SSD. They are so cheap now, just have two drives.

    By the way don't try and put a virtual Windows partition on your Mac RAID array like I once did!! The Windows installer damaged the RAID config and I had to spend hours in data recovery software, as well as buying 3 extra 4TB HDDs to backup to. Was an unpleasant experience to say the least, so keep Windows as far away from your Mac as possible :)

    I recently bought the Asus ROG GL552VW, installed a 500GB M2 SSD, so now I have that and a 7200 RPM 1TB drive. I'll most likely reinstall my Windows 10 onto the SSD, and somehow try to install Yosemite on a partition from the 1TB. So far, that mountains of info feel incredibly daunting. :persevere:

  4. Frame structure of the three types of gimbals are the same, just the pistol grip are different.

    So the 5-axis model becomes the Lite version by converting one of the two existing grips, or do you have to buy an extra "Lite" version pistol grip?

  5. Also curious to see what it looks like side by side a real camera, not their "fake" iphone video-ish camera. My samsung galaxy s4 takes better video than that.  And the iphone 6s takes much better video than that with more dynamic range. Or at least in my head it does.

    You're right. It does perform like a webcam more than a proper phone camera. 

    Also, if the blackness of the material is significantly proportionate to its light (and presumably heat -- cooling must be a pain) collecting abilities, I'd be interested to see what they'd make of the blackest man-made material, carbon-nanotube that absorbs 99 percent of light.

  6. The Nebula4200 5-axis gimbal includes a single handle; the Nebula4200lite 3-axis stabilizer is sold separately.

    You can use the Nebula4200 5-axis gimbal with a pistol grip (single handle) of the Nebula4200lite 3-axis stabilizer too?

  7. Man those kids are interested in sensor technology! I get a feeling they spend long hours in forums. Haha

    But seriously that was quite amazing. I hope we can see a release in a not-too-distant future (Quaaantum film! -- sounds right out of Back to the Future).

  8. Nebula4200lite 1.2kg ,Nebula4200pro 1.4kg ,Nebula4200axis 1.8kg .

    The Nebula4200 series can handle a load of 1.6kg (3.52lbs), supporting all types of DSLR cameras. The series is also compatible with mirrorless cameras. Regardless of the type of camera and/or lens you have, the Nebula4200 series can handle it.

    Which does the 1.6kg refer to?

  9. I believe the Lite version is 1.2kg light... as the product: the handheld gimbal stabilizer itself. The Pro coming in at 1.4kg and the 5-axis at 1.8kg.

    Loads for either based on the same components: 1.6kg. Atleast, that's how I understood it.

    That would suck. Since it all looks like it uses the same motor (judging from face value). 

  10. Andrew I've had the 5DMK3 & A7s together for a year now and I can say without any doubt the A7s is no match for the 5D raw in any situation I've shot in. The A7s has been a real pain in the arse to work with compared to the luxury of raw. Skin is my number one priority and the A7s is crap with skin, s-gamut is the worst, movie and cinema are a little better. The A7sII does appear to render much nicer skin but it's still no match for the 5D raw files. Believe me I'd love to chuck the 5D and replace it with something better but the A7sII ain't it. IBIS is great but 30ms rolling shutter is pretty hideous. I've been sticking to APS-C mode with a speedbooster on the A7s to make the rolling shutter workable.

    I think the A7sII will be really useful in certain situations and a lotta people will probably like it and shoot nice stuff with it, but like every other stock standard DSLR to date there's a lotta compromises, and those Sony prick teasers are holding back raw and global shutters for as long as they can until they run out of other incremental bullshit. Fingers crossed the lads will hack the shit out of the A7sII. Imagine 14bit raw 2k 2.39:1 with around 15ms rolling shutter and 2-3 stops more dynamic range than the 5D.

    The extra time spent pulling hair in every project grading the s-gamut could definitely be put to better use elsewhere. That's why recently I canceled the A7S II order for a Samsung NX1 (order placed already). For 1/3 the price, it's a much more capable machine (skin tone, battery, build). The major trade off being dynamic range. I'm fine with not having IBIS for 1/3 the price; I was already planning on a Nebula 4200lite, even if I had gotten an A7S II. 

    But I am still rooting for Sony. Like Samsung, on a greater scale, they are kicking a lot of asses. I do hope Sony pulls through with future models. There's no excuse for getting the basics wrong (like poor battery life) on a $3000 dslr-sized camera from a company with such tremendous goals (like their possible 21-stop sensor.)

  11. We will delivery at the end of this month, and according to order date shipped.

    Dave Dugdale and Andrew had reviewed Nebula4000, I believe that they had more interested in Nebula4200.

    Which models are the 1.2kg-1.8kg limit attributed to? The catalogues seem vague about this. I'm particularly interested in the Nebula4200 Lite.

  12. We use the AL-H198, 672W, 672S, and Light Storm LS1s (all 95+ CRI) and LS1/2 (98+ CRI).  Suggest avoiding the bicolor models (not as bright). These are the first LEDs we've used with really good color for skin tones. They are good enough for still photography as well: almost as good as strobes for skin color.

    Putting gels on lower color-accuracy LEDs will never look as good due to spectral spikes (we tried). The LS1's have barn doors which come in very handy for attaching the included tracing paper to produce excellent diffuse light. The LS1/2 clips the tracing paper much closer (no barn doors); not quite as diffuse- perhaps better to bounce off a reflector if more diffusion is needed.


    Thanks, jcs. I'll skip the bicolor model as per your and John's advice. And LS1/2 would be stretching my budget a bit. For now the 672S should suffice (along with some warm gel). A shame the 672 series doesn't have barn doors. And I can't find any add-ons either. So I guess it's DIY.

     

    Hi!

    For interviews (or photography) I always use diffuse light. So having a spot light is better for 2 reasons: Stronger light output (the light's power is focused), so you can even compete with sun light in some cases. And 2nd, it's easier to control, the W (wide) sends light in all directions. I prefer to have control over it. I use mine with a softbox with a grid: 

    http://www.amazon.co.uk/Andoer®

    ®

    +80cm

    Awesome modifier, John. Just what I've been looking for. This works well with spreading the light for the "S" model. It looks like I don't need an adapter ring for that, too. I might opt for the Andoer 95cm / 37.4in Octagon Umbrella Softbox with the Honeycomb Grid

     

     

  13. Hi barefoot!

    If I'm not wrong, the H528's are 88 to 95 CRI, not 95 (they just write 95 in the info). So you could see a color shift. I've got 3 Aputure lights:  HR672S, HR672W and a smaller AL-H198C, and all 3 are 95+. I really like them... nice balanced light, with no tints, they don't overheat and they're completely silent. I also have a Yongnuo YN-600, and it's got a strong magenta tint to it, and it's very noisy. The HR672's comes with 2 NP batteries included (which ain't cheap), and cost around 160 quid. If you are going to bounce or filter your lights, I recommend the HR672S (Spot) model. It's brighter, and easier to control...

    Light Storm looks great, but it's still a bit pricey (you can get 3 HR672's for the same money)... But they do look great!

    Hope it helps!

    John, that was a big mistake I almost made. (And the price difference is only like £20!) Also, I was exactly looking at the H198 / C for a smaller unit.
     

    About the HR672S, I come from a photography background, and I've never worked with light that natively outputs a narrow angle of light (I guess the equivalent would be using a snoot for photography). I'd probably try to shoot the HR672S through a umbrella, or my 6' reflector---which, when stripped, doubles as a 6' diffusion sheet---for interviews. Or would a HR672W be more practical for my need?

    Also, do you recommend the HR672C or just getting CTO gels? 

  14. I've been running various Hackintoshes, along side actual Macs, since Snow Leopard and I've yet to have a really unpleasant experience. If you go into it I recommend starting with a desktop build, rather than converting a laptop. Its much harder to get compatible laptop components wise, but it can fun, I have a Surface Pro that runs Yosemite really well. The installation process is so easy these days and websites like TonyMac have excellent guides.

    That's good to hear. And I like the idea of converting a Surface Pro (never occurred to me). 

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