Matthias Scheja

It has its 10 year anniversary in December.
 
❤️

It has its 10 year anniversary in December.
 
❤️

Thank you for your reply. You can order it from small rig. They can reproduce it. Just email them and you receive a offer (~200$) with a special url to their shop.
 

Some of the high-end Canon flash units are surprisingly heavy and large. So, I think it would be ok, but sure a cage is always a safer bet.

The SmallRig cage for the 1DC etc is now discontinued and not available new. I did manage to pick one up secondhand from eBay in good condition. The cage is a pretty good fit and I 3D printed a support for the HDMI cable that screws onto the rig. I do have the original cable support but can't figure our how it clips into the body, it seems way too tight.
 
The Ninja isn't too heavy for the hotshoe, it maybe a problem if the Ninja gets knocked and all the impact gets transferred to the hotshoe though.

Filmed with a t2i (550d in europe)

It has its 10 year anniversary in December.
 
❤️

Who cares!! The more unique and customised my camera is, the better. Who wants to use whatever everyone else does?

Have you considered a C200?
With that said, if you can comfortably afford the C70, it may be the best bet for you.
And with that said, I hate that Canon switched to the RF mount. Big, heavy lenses that cost a fortune does not appeal to me whatsoever, especially for mirrorless bodies. But I still like the DSLR form factor and still shoot ML Raw on my 5D Mark III, so I'm probably just a dinosaur.
I guess a 1DX Mark III could be an option as well if you'd prefer using a mix-pre3 for audio.

Not 4K but it shows that ull need skill beside those 200$....
filmed on a Canon 550D + 50mm f1.8

I found a good skintone comparison. Left side shot with a Sony sensor. The right one with a Canon.

I'd be interested to know if it continues to work well and reliably. The Kingston cards are super cheap even up to 256GB. The maker says they're suitable for 4K video capture too.

I suspect that the two primary reasons the image sensor market is dominated by Sony is because of: (1) shady business deals between Japanese tech companies and (2) a lack of competition from outsiders.

Not 4K but it shows that ull need skill beside those 200$....
filmed on a Canon 550D + 50mm f1.8

its working....

I’m thinking on RGB trick discovered:
As far as i understand Samsung RGB logic (realised in PictureProfile tuning) - it is the middle point of a curve. Thus, when we rise all three together, we make picture brighter and less contrasty without touching exposure (ISO).
I can report: i have very nice improvement with boosting BlackLevel up to +15 on top of new RGB boost, + Expose Compensation - 2.
I can strongly recommend ALL NX1 users to experiment with RGB boost…

OK, so I strongly believe that you can gain an extra whole stop in low light by using method 2. 
Profile settings: color R G B +1.99, contrast -5, Saturation -1, Sharpness -10 (the contrast, saturation & sharpness are to taste but I find the contrast at -5 produces flatter more realistic results).
Once you set the profile you can achieve a similar exposure to standard by using negative -1 exposure compensation. Note how the ISO drops as a result of the negative exposure compensation yet when scenes from standard and this custom profile are compared there do not appear to be any disadvantages just lower noise!
Obviously you will need to adjust exposure compensation for different scenes to protect the whites as much as you probably would in standard exposure but you will  need around an extra stop of negative exposure using this profile..
Next to test externally.

Method 2 is producing some surprising results indoors. Just for fun turn the color in the profile to full 1.99 on all 3 colours. Now use a negative exposure comp to bring the scene to the same level as would be the standard exposure profile. The ISO for capture is much lower and the noise is much less using the custom method compared to standard exposure.
Anyone else?

Testing outside using the new profile, it's very overcast here at the moment, I found my self switching between negative 1.0 and 1.3, but compared to the same scene with Picture Wizard off there is more dynamic range. Also there is at least 1 stop more to be gained which could prove invaluable in failing light.
I hope that you test this and share your results. I have not tried adjusting any other settings which I have left at standard. This may also work for the gamma DR profile as well, more tests are needed.
I will be using this profile for the next few weeks just to see if it is reliable.

Not sure but a simple button push will let you use focus peaking anyway, Kinoseed one remembers your focus position after restart with wirefocus lenses if you set it in the options.
Kinoseed one is the slowest to load but its packed with features, the Vasile one is more video oriented and its as fast as a vanilla NX1/NX500