aldolega

Same here, and I'm pretty much a Panasonic fanboy. I'll wait to see if Sony does anything at NAB, or whatever the next photo tradeshow after that is. And I'd like to see how the 400mbps firmware looks, as 150mbps is a little light for the high-motion stuff I shoot.
Ahhh, who am I kidding? If I wasn't broke I'd probably have it already

Same here, and I'm pretty much a Panasonic fanboy. I'll wait to see if Sony does anything at NAB, or whatever the next photo tradeshow after that is. And I'd like to see how the 400mbps firmware looks, as 150mbps is a little light for the high-motion stuff I shoot.
Ahhh, who am I kidding? If I wasn't broke I'd probably have it already

Same here, and I'm pretty much a Panasonic fanboy. I'll wait to see if Sony does anything at NAB, or whatever the next photo tradeshow after that is. And I'd like to see how the 400mbps firmware looks, as 150mbps is a little light for the high-motion stuff I shoot.
Ahhh, who am I kidding? If I wasn't broke I'd probably have it already

I have a BMCC booster on my GH4 (I got a good deal on it and the XL wasn't out at the time). It presses on the shutter housing, which inhibits the shutter's motion. As a result I can't shoot photos with it, or manually white balance with it. I've been planning to sell it off and get the XL, as that's the same "strength" but clears the GH4 shutter, but with the GH5 having full-sensor 4K and IBIS, I think I'm going to get an Ultra instead.
This of course isn't a direct answer to what the BMCC booster will be like on the G85, sorry. But personally I wouldn't risk it.
Something else to consider is that the BMCC and BMPCC boosters have optical designs meant for Blackmagic's much thinner sensor glass. Panny and Olympus m4/3 cameras have more than twice the glass thickness over the sensor, and the XL and other m4/3 boosters are designed for this.

How the AOV compares to a full-frame camera is completely irrelevant.
You tell the camera the focal length of the lens + booster, that's it. As I stated above. 100mm lens X .72x booster = 72mm.

The IBIS software needs to know the correct angle of view to work properly. But since AOV isn't labeled on lenses, it asks for the focal length. Obviously the IBIS software knows the camera's sensor size, so once it has the focal length it can then calculate the AOV, and then it knows how large or small to make its corrections.
So you would enter the effective focal length of the lens + booster, as a combination, into the camera. So if you have a .71x booster, and a 50mm lens, you would enter 35mm. For a 100mm lens with a .64x booster, you would enter 64mm (or whatever the closest option the camera gives you).
If the lens is "dumb"- meaning it has no electronics transmitting EXIF information (i.e. the lens' focal length, aperture, etc)- the camera will have no idea what length it is, regardless of whether your booster/adapter is electronic or not.
Now, if you mount a smart lens on a smart speedbooster, I would hope that the speedbooster's firmware would apply the booster's reduction power (.71x or .64x or whatever) to the focal length before sending it to the camera. I have no idea if this is done, but if not it certainly should be. I would think Metabones, of all the booster/adapter companies, would be the most likely to have implemented this.
Your experience with differing stabilization when mounting dumb lenses via booster vs. plain adapter probably just has to do with the camera having the wrong focal length entered for one or the other (assuming you used the same value for both).

You used viewfinders/loupes on both cameras? Out on a sunny day?
They're burns, from the loupe optics concentrating the sun onto the screen.
Like a kid burning ants with a magnifying glass.
There's a reason all the nicer loupes/viewfinders have caps on them- to keep this from happening.

You used viewfinders/loupes on both cameras? Out on a sunny day?
They're burns, from the loupe optics concentrating the sun onto the screen.
Like a kid burning ants with a magnifying glass.
There's a reason all the nicer loupes/viewfinders have caps on them- to keep this from happening.

So shaky!
Not enough DOF!
Skin tones look awful!
GH5 is the worst!

So shaky!
Not enough DOF!
Skin tones look awful!
GH5 is the worst!

So shaky!
Not enough DOF!
Skin tones look awful!
GH5 is the worst!

You used viewfinders/loupes on both cameras? Out on a sunny day?
They're burns, from the loupe optics concentrating the sun onto the screen.
Like a kid burning ants with a magnifying glass.
There's a reason all the nicer loupes/viewfinders have caps on them- to keep this from happening.

So shaky!
Not enough DOF!
Skin tones look awful!
GH5 is the worst!

Not to nitpick or derail the thread, but there's much better options than the Z96s now. I had three and sold them off a couple months ago. I went cheap and scored a couple "Pico 228" lights off eBay for $20 each. Much brighter than the Z96s, adjustable color temp, and they stack up much nicer/flatter in my gear bag.
I would recommend watching Caleb Pike's recent LED shootouts on Youtube, lots of great options covered there.

Nowadays the 5D3 and D810 are completely outclassed and outdated for video work. They're still great photo cameras, but if your focus is video you can get a LOT more for your money.
To make specific recommendations we need to know more about what & how you are shooting, and what equipment you already have. For instance many corporate gigs would require lighting- if you have no lighting equipment you need to knock your camera/lens budget down to be able to get some lighting. But maybe you have a lighting rig already, or your clients typically don't want/care about lighting.
Same goes for audio... shooting length (media and battery)... shooting speed (zooms vs. primes, auto modes)... ruggedness/weatherproofing... transport/storage... what looks you want to be able to achieve. Do you need photo capability? What about autofocus? Do you already have lenses or other equipment you need to maintain compatibility with?

Nowadays the 5D3 and D810 are completely outclassed and outdated for video work. They're still great photo cameras, but if your focus is video you can get a LOT more for your money.
To make specific recommendations we need to know more about what & how you are shooting, and what equipment you already have. For instance many corporate gigs would require lighting- if you have no lighting equipment you need to knock your camera/lens budget down to be able to get some lighting. But maybe you have a lighting rig already, or your clients typically don't want/care about lighting.
Same goes for audio... shooting length (media and battery)... shooting speed (zooms vs. primes, auto modes)... ruggedness/weatherproofing... transport/storage... what looks you want to be able to achieve. Do you need photo capability? What about autofocus? Do you already have lenses or other equipment you need to maintain compatibility with?

Nowadays the 5D3 and D810 are completely outclassed and outdated for video work. They're still great photo cameras, but if your focus is video you can get a LOT more for your money.
To make specific recommendations we need to know more about what & how you are shooting, and what equipment you already have. For instance many corporate gigs would require lighting- if you have no lighting equipment you need to knock your camera/lens budget down to be able to get some lighting. But maybe you have a lighting rig already, or your clients typically don't want/care about lighting.
Same goes for audio... shooting length (media and battery)... shooting speed (zooms vs. primes, auto modes)... ruggedness/weatherproofing... transport/storage... what looks you want to be able to achieve. Do you need photo capability? What about autofocus? Do you already have lenses or other equipment you need to maintain compatibility with?

Nowadays the 5D3 and D810 are completely outclassed and outdated for video work. They're still great photo cameras, but if your focus is video you can get a LOT more for your money.
To make specific recommendations we need to know more about what & how you are shooting, and what equipment you already have. For instance many corporate gigs would require lighting- if you have no lighting equipment you need to knock your camera/lens budget down to be able to get some lighting. But maybe you have a lighting rig already, or your clients typically don't want/care about lighting.
Same goes for audio... shooting length (media and battery)... shooting speed (zooms vs. primes, auto modes)... ruggedness/weatherproofing... transport/storage... what looks you want to be able to achieve. Do you need photo capability? What about autofocus? Do you already have lenses or other equipment you need to maintain compatibility with?

I'm working on it now, the G85 is just a little too tall to fit into the G7 cage, by a couple mm. The Smallrig G85 should be out soonish, they have it up for preorder on their site, only $40:
http://www.smallrig.com/SMALLRIG-Cage-for-Panasonic-Lumix-DMC-G85-G80-1950.html

You could see if there's a vertical bracket available for the G7. This will extend the bottom of the camera a bit (kind of like a battery grip) and give you more height.

Pana 12mm f1.4, Oly 25mm f1.2, and Pana 42.5 f1.2 is a prettttty hard trio to beat if you want sharp, shallow "wow" images- and the cost is  a a bit "wow" too.
But you haven't told us anything about what and how you like to shoot, so it's hard to advise on what would work for what & how you like to shoot. Not everyone's style or shooting scenarios work with only three primes.

I'm working on it now, the G85 is just a little too tall to fit into the G7 cage, by a couple mm. The Smallrig G85 should be out soonish, they have it up for preorder on their site, only $40:
http://www.smallrig.com/SMALLRIG-Cage-for-Panasonic-Lumix-DMC-G85-G80-1950.html

The 14mm f2.5 weighs like 50g. It's basically the size of a Canon or Nikon rear lens cap. So if you're trying to get under a weight limit on a gimbal or stabilizer, that's your lens. It's also cheap, sharp, and fairly fast.
The PanaLeica 15mm is undoubtedly a nicer lens with a nicer look, but it's bigger/heavier and way more expensive.

It's still pre-release firmware, I think we should save the condemnations for the final release version.