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Brian Caldwell

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Posts posted by Brian Caldwell

  1. 16 hours ago, Marco Tecno said:

    Matabones were those lying, not Luca. They were part of those trying to destroy nx, imo. They worked at close contact with sony, and nx1 could actually be the only sony killer, for that market segment.

    You're having a paranoid fantasy, Marco.  I design the Speed Booster optics, and my colleague Wilfried designs the mechanical mount.  Together we own the optical design patents and the "Speed Booster" trademark.  That's it - just two people.  We work with subcontractors to manufacture and QC the optical cells, and sell the those cells to Metabones, which itself is just a tiny company.  Any public statement from Metabones about Speed Boosters probably comes from me, so when you say that Metabones is lying you are essentially saying that I am lying.  There is no lying going on here.  I doubt that Samsung - which is a truly enormous company - was even aware of Speed Boosters, much less that its presence or absence played any role at all in their decision to leave the camera business.  No one from Samsung or Sony has *ever* contacted me about Speed Boosters, or anything else for that matter.

    Wilfried and I looked at the Samsung NX mount on several occasions, and concluded it was just too much trouble to deal with due to the metal parts surrounding the sensor.  Based on our analysis, it would require several rectangular elements (similar to one of the Lens Turbo designs), which are much more difficult to make and mount accurately.  It would also require a substantial re-design of the Speed Booster optics, which have a unique performance advantage at extremely large apertures (read the patents if you want to understand this).  I personally had big hopes that the NX-mini mount would take off, since that was much more amenable to high quality focal reducer designs with larger reduction ratios - much like the BMCC and BMPCC from BlackMagic.  But unfortunately both NX and NX-mini have both become extinct except for whatever product remains in the marketplace.

  2. On 9/7/2016 at 0:52 PM, M Carter said:

    Not likely - that's a function of the optics, not of replacing the rubber ring with a gear. Even changing the ratio to get a longer throw won't affect how the image responds to focus changes. 

    In a zoom lens there is always the possibility of moving the variator during focusing to adjust the EFL and thus eliminate breathing.  Its easier to do this with an electronically controlled lens, but is still possible with a mechanical design.

  3. 4 hours ago, geppoitaly said:

    hi what the proportion for 4:3? 1.33x1.33x1.33 ? and why if i put 2.40:1 proportion the footage seems too high? are the adapters not 1.33x ? slr magic and ag la 7200

    and why if i cross the adapters the image is perfect and as frontal speedbooster not like wide adapters?

    p.s. i can autofocus on camera with this adapters.

    Stacking two 1.33x anamorphic adapters will result in a 1.77x anamorphic adapter.  This is close to the ideal squeeze of 1.79x that you would want to convert 4:3 to 2.39:1 .  A Speed Booster will shorten the focal length.

  4. 4 hours ago, Ebrahim Saadawi said:

    People: please answer this question for @Brian Caldwell it's very likely a research into a very exciting item we all wish to exist!

    Brian: if it's any help. The A7s, in my experience, when used in 1080p HD internal mode, uses the full width of the sensor so 4240 pixels and just crops the vertical dimension to 16:9 ratio. Can't personally calculate how many pixel vertically would be used. So it downscales 4240 to 1920 internally for HD. 

    When used with an external recorder to record the 4K stream, I noticed a slight crop. Which certainly means the A7s, in 4K mode externally, uses a 1:1 pixel readout which is 3840 crop from 4240. That's about a 1.1-ish crop over the FF 36mm width.  

    This is all in my experience with the A7s MARK ONE. NOT TWO. So it might have changed any anyway. 

    Thanks Ebrahim.  As always, your contributions here are extremely helpful.  What you are reporting is what I suspected, but its really nice to get confirmation like this since I don't have the camera myself.

    FWIW, I am doing research for a product, but its for a system of anamorphic lenses and not a fullframe Speed Booster, which may not be what you were hoping for but which I promise will be very cool.  

  5. Thanks in advance if anybody can help me track down the following information.  I need to know the exact dimensions of the 16x9 video frame used by the Sony A7s-II in both 4k and 2k video modes.  All that I'm confident about are the following:

    1) full still sensor size measures 35.8mm x 23.9mm

    2) full sensor resolution in still mode is 4240 x 2832.

    3) 1 and 2 together imply a pixel dimension of approximately 8.44 microns square

    4) 4k video resolution is 3840 x 2160.

    SO:  does this mean that the rectangle of sensor area used during 4k recording is 32.41mm x 18.23mm? 

    Similarly, what would be the as-used sensor dimension when shooting 4k in "full-frame" mode?

     

  6. 19 minutes ago, Caleb Genheimer said:

    I've always been surprised at people that swear by 1.33X or 1.5X anamorphics, because it seems that they don't understand this stuff. It is a HUGE part of the look! If you're going to go less than 2X (or if you're going to use a rear anamorph), you almost may as well just use a streak filter and crop with a barrel-distorted spherical prime. 

    . . . . .

    I agree for the most part, although 1.79x is a good alternative to 2x, since it is more efficient and in a good implementation actually looks more anamorphic than many 2x lenses.

  7. 6 hours ago, tweak said:

    I have GH4, but got 7D recently for MLRaw, it's a lot nicer than the GH4 for 2x anamorphic in my opinion. I still have both. Just make sure you get a good SSD drive and some 128GB CF cards if you get a 7D.

    Is the 7D with MLRaw 4:3 or 6:5?  Also, do you have any idea what the exact as-used sensor dimensions might be?  Just curious since I'm developing a bunch of new lenses.

  8. Apologies in advance if this is widely known.  Personally, I've never found a really good explanation of why front anamorphs produce oval bokeh and rear anamorphs don't, despite reading my fair share of patents, technical papers, internet gossip and the like.  Feeling that my own understanding needed some firming up I finally set up some paraxial models and went through the math in gory detail.  It all boils down to how front and rear converters alter (or don't alter) the f/#, and basic DOF type circle of confusion calculations.  It has nothing to do with higher order aberrations, or the shape of the front lens, or various mechanical aspects of the lens.

    Briefly:

    1) A front anamorph is just a special case of a front afocal attachment, and as a result it preserves the f/# of the lens its attached to.  With an anamorphic front lens the focal length is shorter in the powered axis than in the non-powered axis.  For example, consider a 2:1 anamorph attached to a 100mm f/2 spherical lens.  In this case the net focal length is 50mm in the powered axis and 100mm in the non-powered axis, but in both cases the aperture remains f/2.  If you venture into the weeds to do circle of confusion calculations for a given object-space defocus you discover that a de-focused point source evaluated at the image plane is an ellipse with an aspect ratio of 4:1.  However, you only need to de-squeeze the image by 2x to correct the in-focus geometry, so you are left with de-focused ellipses with an aspect ratio of 2:1.

    2) A rear anamorph is just a special case of a rear-mounted teleconverter, and as a result it *does not* preserve the f/# of the lens its attached to.  In particular, in the powered axis the aperture becomes slower.  For example, consider an 50mm f/2 spherical lens with a 2x rear anamorph.  Here the net focal length is 100mm in the powered axis, but the aperture has dropped to f/4, and is still 50mm f/2 in the non-powered axis.  When you do the circle of confusion calculations with object-space defocus you find the on-sensor defocused image to be an ellipse with a 2:1 aspect ratio.  When you desqueeze by 2x this defocus ellipse becomes a perfect circle.

    Bottom Line:  Rear anamorphs have circular bokeh because they *don't* preserve the f/# of the spherical lens in both axes, while front anamorphs have elliptical bokeh because they *do* preserve the f/# of the spherical lens in both axes.

  9. 25 minutes ago, jcs said:

    Are you saying that any effect such as 'DOF falloff' are not real effects or are related to a particular MF lens design, and not the physics of light imaging a subject on a larger sensor size? (xCyclops uses a 5D2 to capture a projected image on a plane). 

    "DOF falloff"  seems like a really poor term.  How about simply "defocus", or perhaps "MTF as a function of defocus" - which I think is what people actually mean.  In optics this is referred to as "through-focus MTF", and its a standard and useful way to characterize a design.  It will vary from design to design because it is strongly aberration dependent, but it has nothing to do with sensor size.

    One advantage that larger formats have is that you can use a smaller relative aperture to achieve a given DOF.  Since aberration correction tends to be very non-linear with respect to f/# you often wind up with better correction on a larger format.  For instance, I used to shoot 11x14" film a fair amount, and aside from an advantage in film grain it allowed me to shoot at f/16 instead of the ~f/1.4 I would have had to use on 24x36 format to achieve an equivalent picture.  Focal lengths scaled accordingly, naturally.  At f/16 the ultra large format lens was nearly diffraction-limited, whereas a small format lens at f/1.4 is nowhere near that limit.  Of course, as you depart from such extremes in aperture any potential optical differences between large and small formats begin to disappear, and these differences are further minimized by improved sensor quality.  So that ridiculously huge view camera stays on the shelf these days!

    Regarding the argument about whether a long lens on a large format has less perspective distortion than a proportionally scaled lens on a smaller format, the answer is "no".  In terms of perspective and geometry, all lenses mimic the behavior of simple pinhole cameras - with the possible exception of rectilinear distortion which is generally a non-issue.  One other thing to be aware of is that larger formats require a larger magnification, which essentially means you are using a longer lens than you may think you are for close-ups.  For example, when shooting close portraits on 11x14" I was typically shooting at around -1x magnification, which effectively doubles the length of the lens.  However, when you take this effect into account any potential discrepancies go away, and you are left with the stark reality that larger formats really don't offer any special "magic".

  10. On 6/18/2016 at 0:44 PM, jcs said:

    .....If it's a real effect, the results could be presented to optical designers such as Caldwell to show a possible market for a MF to FF focal reducer. If not by Caldwell, perhaps someone else in HK or CN.

     

    Perhaps I could call such a product "The Naked Emperor Focal Reducer"?  At least then I could sleep at night.  I thought Kipon announced one of these, but it still seems to be vaporware.

    To be clear, adding a focal reducer to a medium format lens to convert it to a 24x36 format lens will only result in a slowish FF lens.  That's because medium format lenses tend to have very conservative designs and are very slow to begin with.  I can't think of a single MF lens + focal reducer combination that would be a compelling new addition to the FF optical repertoire.  As you have correctly implied, there is no magic to be found here.

     

  11. On 6/15/2016 at 3:39 AM, TSV said:

    Hi everyone

    I need some advise. As for today I own a GH4 and GX7MKII with a 12-35mm, 35-100mm and 15mm. I have two problems with this setting

    1. I need faster lens (1.7 is not that great on the 15mm)
    2. I need a wider angle than the 12mm.

    Now my problem is as follow.

    Shall I get M43 lenses? The just announce 12mm 1.4 is sexy, but the price is just insane. While the 7-14mm from Pana is affordable but not that sharp and stuck to F4 and the 7-14 from Olympus at 2.8 cost twice as much as Pan one, but is amazing.

    Or... Shall I go the Speedbooster way and get a Tokina AT-X 11-20 F2.8 PRO DX 11-20mm F2.8 and a 18-35 Sigma Art (all Canon mount)/ To give you an idea, the cost of The Olympus 7-14 will cover the cost of the Tokina and Speedbooster. While the cost of the New Pana 12 1.4, will cover the cost of the Simga and Speedbooster.

    I have seen a few 4K Video shot with the Sigma and this lens seems to outperform my 12-35mm un every way (please correct me if I am wrong), but I was not able to find videos shot in 4K with the Tokina.

    Thanks in advance. 

    I think a lot depends on how much you need lens speed, and how important the speed vs. size/weight tradeoff is to you.  The new Panasonic 12/1.4 is no doubt a nice lens, and it looks pretty compact, but a Speed Booster XL on an 18-35 Sigma will give you an 11.5-22.4mm f/1.1 with excellent wide-open sharpness.  In this case the native lens would make more sense if size/weight is more important than speed, and if you don't plan to use a Speed Booster on other lenses.  On the other hand, a truly sharp f/1.1 zoom can come in pretty handy!

  12. On 6/11/2016 at 3:20 AM, Bioskop.Inc said:
    On 6/15/2016 at 4:18 AM, tweak said:

    I think the idea of bigger squeeze is great. I think Cosmo made a 3.75 which would be cool. I don't really like the idea of two scopes in a pathway, but modifying two scopes to build one scope with a bigger squeeze is good I think.

     

    Two afocal attachments in series should have significantly better image quality than a single shorter one with the same total squeeze ratio.

  13. 15 hours ago, Vladimir said:

     

    Vladimir:  Very cool idea, and although it may lead to some very physically long lenses (!!) it should work pretty well.

    Richard:  Your suggestion of an Iscorama 54 on the front is a good one since the rear diameter of the front anamorphic section will likely determine how much vignetting there is.  The rear anamorphic section won't be stressed too much since the objective lens will be longer than usual, and will be in a normal location.  Too bad Isco54's don't grow on trees!  Although Vladimir rightfully likes wide aspect ratios I think that a near-16x9 output could be very useful for lots of applications.

  14. The attached PDF file contains some of the data I've measured and collected for various lenses.  EFL is the paraxial focal length, EXPP is the exit pupil distance measured from the image plane in air (positive value means pupil is towards the object from the image), ENPP is the entrance pupil distance measured from the first glass surface (positive value means the entrance pupil is towards the image plane from the first surface), and BFL is the distance from the rear glass surface to the image plane measured in air.  All measurements are in millimeters.LensData.pdfLensData.pdf

  15. 13 minutes ago, bluefonia said:

    I see where you are coming from. My kind of thinking was along the lines that when monitors reach a certain quality level of sharpness/resolution/contrast and so on, we reach some point where we don't need more of that sharpness/resolution/contrast and so on. Well, maybe we have not reached that point yet. About the outdated tech, - yes, I have been around that too.

    In fact I have considered the new Aputure VS Fine, which- as you say - has much better resolution than the old one.

    I'm thinking along the same lines. I would indeed prefer a 5" for its small size, but I¨m afraid it will not fulfill my main purpose being a great tool for focusing,

    Its the angle of view that counts, not the physical size of the screen.  So, a 5" screen plus a pair of cheap reading glasses can easily match a 7" screen (or a 12" screen, or a 24" screen, etc.) so long as all of the screens have the same resolution.

  16. 4 hours ago, andrew mcmillan said:

    16x9 for those of us who shoot on a7s or 5dmlii, just curious i have the 1.33 50 and am pretty happy with it up till i go to my 85 2.8 contax zeiss, I thought the 2.8 85 zeiss with its small front element would do pretty good, but no bananas, maybe this 40 would do better?

    What exactly don't you like about the 1.33/50 with your 85/2.8?  I would expect any attempt to focus-through with the rear lens to fail pretty miserably due to astigmatism, but if you set everything to infinity and use a single-focus variable diopter front attachment it should be OK unless you're focusing really close.

  17. 3 hours ago, andrew mcmillan said:

    I wonder if thats a mistake about the taking lenses. i wonder if this lens could do longer focal lengths on fullframe. 

    what do you ghuys think

    Any afocal anamorphic attachment should be compatible with fullframe, so long as the focal length of the spherical component is large enough.   You may be restricted in terms of maximum aperture, however, depending on the exit pupil diameter of the attachment and how much aberration you are willing to put up with.  Take an extreme example:  An Iscorama-36 should work just fine on 8x10" format with, say, a 600mm lens, but you would be limited to about f/16.

    BTW, in your mind, what counts as fullframe?  24x36mm, or a 16x9 crop (20.25x36mm), or a 4x3 crop (24x,32mm), or ??????

  18. The Buhler Isomet is a nice low-speed saw that takes ultra-thin kerf diamond blades, but its very expensive.  I used one of these a lot when I was working on gradient index glass.  You might have some luck with a lapidary saw or a tile saw, and you might find a used one cheap.  The trick will be holding the lens properly, and make sure you put plenty of paint on it for protection during cutting.

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