jase

new firmware is on my nx1 - was so simple to install.  It has enabled 6k IMAX recording and global shutter and 14 444 pro res files and slo mo up to 400,000 FPS and made the camera say "nice shot" everytime I get a good shot.  I highly recommend upgrading.

I vote for GM1, since I am using it completely for run&gun. The missing stabilisation is not that much of a problem if you have a steady hand and if you actually wont run while shooting ;)
 
Some examples with that camera:
 

 

 

I vote for GM1, since I am using it completely for run&gun. The missing stabilisation is not that much of a problem if you have a steady hand and if you actually wont run while shooting ;)
 
Some examples with that camera:
 

 

 

lt's keep this nice and friendly guys! 
 
in answer to your innital question -
 
this is one of the reasons I don't like full frame as you do end up having to stop down to f4 - f5.6 range in general to make it match the dof of apsc / 4 perf 35mm film cameras etc .
I prefer to push a lens into its sweet spot of artistic look ....full wide open or just one stop down from there thats where I find the magic of a lens is looks wise...not at clinically perfect f5.6 - at which all lens are pretty good.
 
So stopped down to f5.6 in a low light situation is not so good as you either add more lights to the scene/ location (if you artistically can do that without altering the look too much )
 
or you increase the iso ,
 
I dont ever like to go over 800 iso on my Panasonics , I shoot f2 in low light as thats just enough dof without it getting silly narrow .
 
Thats why my Canons are only used for stills every now and then  and I shoot everything on micro 4/3 with speedboosters.
I prefer a smaller sensor not full frame.

Thanks a bunch for the replies! Very reassuring and helpful. 
 
@jase
Splendid vids! Thanks for posting 'em!
 
GX7 it is. Now the blasted wait begins. Ship Faster! I've had nothing to shoot with for Weeks! AAaaa!

I am using the GM1 for more than a year now and it is a superb camera. Buying the bigger brother GX7 is a no brainer if you dont mind the bigger size (which I do). Herea couple of examples what you easily can achieve:

Here my first actual piece i shot with the filter. I have to admit that I am quite pleased!
 

Hey guys, I threw a sample video together for you...
 

pass: jockjams
 
It's a compilation of some paid work I've done with the A7s.  
 
I'm really against shooting s-log2 with this camera.  I've never been able to get anything but weird results from it. Maybe I'm just not a good enough colorist, but I haven't seen many other people get good color from it, either.
 
My current favorite shooting mode is the creative style Autumn Leaves with contrast -3, sat 0, sharpness -3.  I set wb manually to compensate for a7s's tint problems.  Then I grade in FCP X.

I shot a set up last week with the Tokina RMC 28-85MM f4 low contrast lens :
 
we wanted to go for that 1940's Pinup Girl on low contrast film stock look for this set up.
 
frame grab of
Tokina RMC 28-85MM f4 on Lens Turbo speedbooster
Panasonic GX7
no processing image is straight out the camera
 
low contrast lens
1/50 sec 400 iso f4 wide open
 
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it gives you a similar look to the Tiffen filter discussed here but its all done in the lens and as its a 28-85mm zoom its very useful
as you can do the whole set up on just one lens , 28mm for the wides 40mm for the coverage and 85mm for the close ups

First of all I'd like to say hi to everyone on the forum :-)
 
I guess I would've never have the guts to post my video (No More False Alarms) here, so big thanks for Inazuma for letting me know about the thread he started. That really made my day, thanks! :-)
 
I just wanted to chime in about the Tiffen Ultra Cons. I have used the #3 with 5Dmk2 (at that time I've found #5 to be an overkill as well), but when I switched to GX7 everything changed.
 
Most of the test posted here were done in pretty low contrast conditions already. In that case Ultra Con #5 seems like an overkill. An it will be. Unless you shoot in the summer, in the middle of the day. 30% of my footage from Crete was shot in broad daylight. Of course you have to be careful when shooting backlight. I had some vignetting from the lens hood - which was unavoidable, but my love of "fake anamorphic" (i.e. cropping the image) took care of that.
 
Stronger Ultra Con really helps with front-lighted subjects, taking harshness off things. Of course I got some pretty washed out shots sometimes, but was surprised how much of the image I could recover with simple levels/curves adjustment in post.
 
So I'd say - get both. #3 for our European gloomy days, #5 for this happy one week of vacation :-]

Yeah, I am not a 100% sure whether it is too strong or not - unfortunately I ordered it before you updated your post :)
 
Maybe I will swap it also with the #3
 
Nice video btw!

Nice test :) I don't think you needed to sharpen it though. It makes the compression artefacts stand out too much.
 

 
This is my entry for the HitRecord competition by Joseph Gordon-Levitt. The objective is to take cinematic, handheld footage of your city. And it needs to include some walking shots as well as a shot with the camera on myself.
 
The afternoon and early evening shots were done on Saturday when I received the Ultra Contrast 5 filter. As I mentioned I think it's a bit too strong and so used the #3 for the rest of the footage which I took over the next few days.
 
Really like the image I get with the filter on. Just a shame about my terriby shaky hands :p

I know that behaviour - I once had the Olympus 12mm f2.0 which works about the same. However, as much as i like the scale, i dislike this "pop" effect since changing the focus smoothly is not possible... A lens like those from Olympus with smooth focusing would be my wet dream.

Indeed, thanks for sharing! Ordered one :)

I am still in love with this camera. This is my newest video i shot during a festival, pure run&gun withhout any rig at all: