Pascal Garnier

​That's what you made it into, to justify someone else's racism.
I'm done with this site.

​Very enlightening to read this from you, the administrator and owner of this site.
I completely and wholeheartedly disagree with you.  
If you don't see the problem with any white person saying that word (yes : WHO says the word DOES matter), then there's very little to say.  
Even behind closed doors or without a black person in sight.  Apparently to you it's OK to say it when there's no fear for the consequences.  
If Clarkson is the big guy you claim him to be, let him say it for comic effect in Brixton.  And see what big guy he really is.
You can't use a derogatory term like that like it's nothing and then be surprised people react when you try to laugh it off.  
This has nothing to do with political correctness, which seems to have become the cluster term to justify all kinds of bigotry.
 

If you hit a coworker on the job, there's going to be consequences.
Top Gear will do just fine without Clarkson.  
That's all there is to it.

congrats with finding a Red that cheap, but maybe you should check your monitoring setup, because those stills look way too dark and contrasty.  
As in Canon HV20 stills.

There's no need for Canon, Nikon, Panny, Sony to try and compete with app builders and smartphone makers.
It's an absurd ratrace, where you need to put out something new every 2 months in this consumption driven society. 
Which does nothing but destroy this planet and leaves people constantly frustrated because they feel that not having the latest model somehow says something about your skills or selfvalue.

Let them focus on people who make a living out of photograph, or the serious hobbyist.
Just like they did in the past.  If they managed to have a healthy company by only releasing a new camera every few years, why would that be impossible today ?

Yashica made it's most famous and popular Electro 35 camera, the GSN for over 15 years, without any changes.
I still shoot with one.  Or the TLR 124G.  Same for Mamiya Sekor's DTL1000. 

The future is longevity : provide decent support/service centers and camera's that last almost a lifetime, and preferrably even work without a battery (like the Olympus Trip). 
Not a camera that has OS problems or a sensor malfunction 2 months out of warranty.
Get out of the stock exchange and run your company without stakeholders who want maximal profit in a very short time period.

Be a small but solid company instead of trying to be the biggest player who's constantly running the risk of going bankrupt.
We all praise the Sony A7S, but Sony itself is in trouble and could be completely over with next year.  Who's going to fix your digital camera or operating system when the manufacturer no longer exists ?
Meanwhile, I can still have my 40 year old analog camera fixed and shoot great pictures in the middle of nowhere without any batteries by using the Sunny 16 rule.

 

I'm about to sell a complete set of Mamiya Sekor M42 lenses (28 2.8, 35 2.8, 50 2.0, 55 1.4, 135 2.8), along with a jinfinance Speedbooster (from M42 to M43).
All lenses are getting a full LCA treatment this week, should have 'm back next week.
If you're interested let me know.  I live in Belgium, so shipping should be reasonable.

Mamiya Sekor's, along with Yashica's or Canon FD's are a great and affordable route.  I'm selling my Mamiya Sekor's because I have a full Canon FD collection now.

 

@Rikoshet : I downloaded the firmware update through a different site this morning.  Apparently they linked to just the YAGH firmware update.
I followed the link on this blog and everything worked out fine.

Start stop over HDMI doesn't work with my Ninja Blade.  
The option is greyed out in my GH4's menu.

Have tried changing to 24p Cinema mode, various settings (both MP4 and AVCHD), but it won't work ...

Anyone more info or a different experience ?

Anyone else having trouble updating to 2.1 ?
I did everything the instructions say : newly formatted card, full battery.

However when I press play nothing happens, just the usual 'no picture' message.

What a bunch of overgeneralizing statements, just to try to proove a point that you already decided on.
Photography has never been this alive.
People said the exact same thing about painting when photography came up.  People said the exact same thing about music when MIDI was invented.
This is lazy arguing at best.

Sell your gh2 and buy a g6.  Same image quality without having to hack it.

I'm sorry, but this isn't doing anything for me.
Mainly because the green screen shots are very very obviously fake, and the digital effects like the explosion or jump into the pool are anything but convincing.
Add to that the sound design and mixing which don't make any sense.  Like all composited shots from the 7:15 mark on, which have dry studio voice over sound, while they're standing outside.

The main problem I have with these technical aspects lacking, is that they draw me completely away from the story.  So much so, that I couldn't even tell you what this short is about.  Nor that I want to watch it again to find out.

After trying out various settings with the GH4, my impression is that the best way to shoot with it is as with my G6.

One of my last shoots with my G6 was for an Ikea commercial. The other cameras on that shoot were Sony F5's and F55's. In the final edit, there's no way to tell which shots were my G6 and which were the Sony's. Same thing with another shoot with Sony's ànd a Red. 

On the G6, I shot with the NATURAL profile with contrast, sharpness, noise reduction all the way down.  Saturation and hue are dialled in depending on what the scene needs.  I don't touch Master Pedestal at all, nor do I mess with the shadows and highlights. 

This gives me a very flat image with proper skintones that grades very well and carries none of the noise that seems to plague the GH4 when shooting with Cinelike D or V.
I also suggest to keep the ISO at 400 (even though 800 is supposed to be the native ISO) and use ND filters when needed.  Or adjust the shutterspeed if you're after that look or have no ND.

I also use a Speedbooster clone with fast Canon FD lenses, which gives a decent low light performance with the GH4.

Finally, I record most of my serious work on an Atomos Ninja, so the 10-bit definitely helps, as does shooting in 4K and having the camera downconvert to 2K through HDMI.

The GH4 is 50% over his budget ....

I was going to rephrase the question to which camera in this price range has the best HDMI out, but based on above post it could be the GH4, so it's still not out of the running yet.

Panasonic G6, Sony A6000 or Panasonic GH3.

G6 has no HDMI out, but delivers better video than the A6000.  Very good battery life also.

GH3 is the most expensive camera but is built better.

I have both the G6 and A6000.  For stills I prefer the A6000 (it replaced my Canon DSLR's), for video the G6 is my favourite.

The good thing about the G6 is that it's dirt cheap, allowing you to get a couple of extra batteries, Metabones Speedbooster (or clone) and a few Canon FD lenses all within your budget.

Maybe you need to make your own camera ...

The entire canon management team for cameras needs to be fired. The are old and clueless.

 

Sony is bad also. They always lure you into something then leave out a critical feature only available in the most expensive pro product.

 

Not sure why panasonic thinks its ok to have shit dynamic range. They really make the those rebranded Leica lenses look bad.

 

Lets hope BlackMagic can get access to a better sensor and open sources their firmware.

One of the organisations I work for parttime, have asked me to assemble them a compact video setup (both shooting and editing).  I'll also be the person shooting and editing for them.  The setup will be used for shooting training videos and internal communication.  Nothing too fancy, no effects work whatsoever, mostly fairly basic edits.

The setup I proposed consists of a new iMac with FCPX (or possibly Black Magic Resolve free version), a decent tripod and a Rode Videomic Rycote.  Camerawise I suggested the GH4 w/ 14-140 lens.  Since this setup will have to serve them for +5 years, anything less than 4K is a no-go.

Now, with the release of the FZ1000 and LX100, which also offer 4K shooting at a lower pricepoint, I'm not too sure anymore about the GH4. 
I own a GH4 myself, am perfectly happy with it, but buying a camera such as the FZ1000 of LX100 at half the price (including lens) will suffice for their needs. Both are also easier cameras for novice shooters than the GH4, plus the LX100 has image stabilisation.

Choosing one of both cameras would also free up more budget for lav mics, external recorders, ...

So I think I have my mind made up, but if anyone sees a reason why I should go for the GH4 + 14-140 instead , please let me know why.
Also, if you feel why the FZ1000 would be better than the LX100 (or vice versa), let me know.

Thanks in advance.

 

I'm sorry, but it's only natural that sales drop over time.
 

Three major reasons why :

- normal people don't buy a new camera every single year, most people who buy a DSLR will use it for 3-5 years minimum before buying a new model.  Not all of us use them professionally or need to have the newest equipment the moment it comes out.

- the moment people replace their camera, their DSLR is being sold second hand.  The second hand camera market follows the new product market with a delay of 3-5 years.  Which means that the new DSLR's from 5 years ago are now changing hands.   To new owners who are NOT buying a new DSLR.  But will probably use their second hand camera for minimum 2 years.

- there's an economical crisis that affects the camera market too.

This is not exclusive to DSLR's.

New car sales in the Netherlands for example have dropped to the lowest level in 45 years.

And then to specifically blame Canon and Nikon for this doesn't make any sense.

Percentages don't tell a story here.  Considering that Olympus isn't shipping the numbers that Canon and Nikon are doing, absolute numbers would tell a more accurate story.  Also, people switch brands, so a decline in sales for Canon will automatically benefit other brands.  The point is, you need much more accurate data before jumping to these wild conclusions.

5DtoRGB

I swear by this one

http://kamerar.com/collections/lcd-viewfinders/products/qv-1-m-lcd-view-finder

Having shot with Canon, Sony, Panasonic and Red camera's, I have to agree.

Canon's colour science is unique, especially when it comes to people/skintones.
Unfortunately, for me being able to shoot slo-mo and getting more detailed pictures is more important than the colour science.
 

Shooting RAW is no option for me, considering the postproduction and the delivery schedule I have for my work.

So I'm shooting with a GH4, G6 and A6000.  Haven't managed to reproduce the Canon colours yet in grading, but getting there slowly.
And shooting in 4K is good because the GH4 can convert in camera to 2K in ProRes with an Atomos Ninja.  This gives you incredibly detailed footage, ready to edit.  With all the benefits of 4K without the hassle in post.

If you don't need slow motion and if you can live with the relatively soft image, or if you don't mind shooting RAW and dealing with the post processing, definitely get a 5D MK III.

the FD 35-70 is a great allround lens, BUT you can't attach a (Vari) ND to it, unless you rig it up with a mattebox.

so the only options when shooting in sunlight are raising your shutter speed or closing down the aperture.

one more important consideration concerning being stuck with 30p.  everytime you'll be shooting under street or fluorescent lights, or computer or tv-screens, you'll be stuck with flicker that you can not get rid of.

if the NX30 was better than the G6, plenty of people would've found out by now and would be using it.
the strengths of the G6 are well-documented and there's plenty of people using them daily.

other people have already summed up the cons of the NX30 that make it a less flexible camera than the G6.  Plus, as you said yourself, it's also more expensive than the G6.

With those a110 lenses I can get focus on distant objects no problem. You've had issues doing this?

No focus to infinity on none of the 110 lenses I have.  I can focus until 5 to 6 metres, not further.  Houses 40 metres away = fuzzy.  Problem solved if you buy an adapter with built-in aperture, but that cost me $70 and at the expense of less light coming in.