Dan Wake

Yep, that's why i mentioned the moire in BM RAW.
However, the ProRes, as standard, really is v.good - so much so, that i really don't see the need for RAW on the Pocket (maybe wide landscape shots).
Also, in BM Pocket you get Full HD [continuous] Raw recording, no time limits but the card filling up & sound.
Having used ML RAW on my 60D, you do notice a little difference between 12 & 14, but really not enough to cry about.
 
Anyways, back to your original post - Did you make a mistake?
Probably not.
With the 7D you get a 2-in-1 camera: photos, some ML RAW & H264 (you can increase the bit rate with ML), all without Moire & Aliasing. Plenty of stuff has been shot on a 7D - part of Black Swan used a 7D (subway shots).
 
Your gut feeling told you to buy the 7D & there's always going to be that moment of "what if I bought this or that instead" - everyone goes through it.
Best cure - Go out & shoot something with it!
 
One tip - use a good Picture Style with it, I found VisionColor to be excellent.

You better start with learning one, your CC software with the manual or better yet with a complete video tut training. Then there are some very general advices on requirements and workflow:

1. Calibrate your monitor(s) ...
2. Backlight them with 6500k balanced lights.
3. Paint the wall behind with a dark, neutral grey.
4. Exclude all strongly colored objects from your FOV.
5. Don't allow reflections or light temperatur mixes.

Workflow:
1. Optimize your clips (neutralize them). Don't trust your eyes. Use the scopes. This is primary CC.
2. Apply changes to selected areas of your images. This is secondary CC.
3. Find a look for the most enigmatic of your shots in one sequence. Now your taste and your good eye are asked for. Don't start this step when you're tired or not relaxed. This (on top of steps 1&2) is a grade. Copy the grade.
4. Apply the grade to the rest of the sequence, fine-tune it.
You will find, that by now clips from different cameras or with different lenses or exposure will look 98% as much congruent as possible.
5. Finally, iron out the missing 2% by comparing all your shots with the tools provided by your software (split screen, lighttable, whatever). After you graded for look, now grade for consistency.

https://vimeo.com/68340708
 
http://ae.tutsplus.com/author/bran-hvitabjorninn/
 
https://vimeo.com/73658885
 
https://vimeo.com/65617394
 
https://vimeo.com/65347677
 
Hopefully some of these should get you started like it did me, there's also a beginners tut on the Blackmagic website also

Most shops around here in Sweden don't sell Sachtler, so I have no idea about how those perform. However, when I got my Manfrotto 503HDV head, I tried panning and tilting both 501 and 503 heads in the shop. The 503 felt much smoother and concise compared to the 501, which made my choice easy.
 
So, my advice is to try to find a shop where you can actually try them out. Then you can probably figure out if the difference is large enough for you to want to save a bit of money from your budget or not.

As far as I know ( i do  not claim to be an expert), a fluid head uses the flow of viscous fluid to smoothly control the rate of panning. As you turn (or tilt) the head, fluid is forced through an opening. The wider the opening (which is often adjustable) the less resistance on the movement. 
 
With a friction head, resistance is determined by two washers (i think nylon usually) that can be compressed tighter together to create more (or less) resistance.  The use of solid friction makes the resistance much less smooth than a fluid head. This is why most serious video tripods use fluid heads. Friction heads are more commonly used in photography.   
 
Personally I think if you are serious about video, you should't skimp on the tripod. It's something that is extremely important for quality camera movements, and even more important, they last a lot longer than a camera body. 

I have a Sachtler Ace M, which has a fluid head. It's by far the best tripod I've owned.

about me for example 800 dollars are a lot of money to find out by my self. I can buy a "pellet stove" with that price.

it's photography but could be in topic anyway: https://www.flickr.com/photos/jamesyeung/
 
 
look at exif, bye! :)

does it suffer from Aliasing and Moire? thanks

I'm really new on this forum and I'm going to buy and study the Andrew's Guide very soon, I'll do it with great pleasure. I wish to ask something if it is possible. I'm going to buy now my first kit, I study at school to become  cinematographer but I use theyr equpment... So it'is time for me to buy my personal tools. I will buy the canon 600d wich is a 1.6x crop sensor. I will buy it used because I belive that the most important thinks are the lenses. So I wish to buy some Samyang lenses, that have a very nice quality but most important, they works also on full frame. What I want to say is that I want a cheap used DSLR body, but a good lens that I will bring also on full frame one day (when I will have the right money). The question is, does exist some model of anamorphic lens that should I look for, that would be good for 1.6x crop sensor, and also one day for a new full frame DSLR? (I'm really sorry for my bad english). p.s. My intent is to have a nice aspect ratio -but- not the Steven Segal Letterbox 2000!? Or maybe yes? I'm not sure about this... XD
 
 
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=d82j_Qfp_VA