Scott Goldberg

So, I did a lot of uploads for certain clips a while ago doing test shoots and they are on my side bar for where my clips are in FCP X. If I delete them from the side bin, are they (the file and space they take up) out of the FCP program for good? I ask because I want them to be. I'm not sure if they're saved and taking up space in some area where I cannot see that it's taking up space in...can anyone confirm this?

First Question: Will FCP X convert the 30fps to 24fps if FCP X is editing as a FCP timeline?

Also, has anyone tried to slow down the visual slightly in FCP X and do they have any samples of it? I'm doing shots of a person walking up the street and shooting in 120 or 240 fps will alias some parts and I don't need extreme slow motion visuals for this shot, just half the speed of what I'm shooting (ie: 60 fps)

Also, final question, does S&Q degrade the quality just like shooting Super Slow Motion does? I heard up to 60 fps, it will stay the same resolution as if shooting in 24 fps is this true?

"A lot of people make the mistake of thinking low ISO means low noise. Low ISO means the noise starts showing up further into the shadows, but if your image is darker because you are using a too low an ISO, it will still have more noise. In most cases with cameras with hardware gain like the FS700, for example if you use 1stop higher ISO, your whole signal will be boosted by one stop and your noise might start showing up half a stop higher in the shadows, but that means you may have brought 1/2 a stop of your shadows out of the noise. This is a bit of a simplistic description, but you get the idea. The actual tradeoff will depend on the design of the sensor, but for hardware gain (up to a certain point, and some other cameras use software gain past that point) increasing ISO will usually give you less noise for the same scene, right up to the point when its too high an exposure and you have to stop increasing ISO to save your highlights.

Really high ISOs are noisier because they are used to shoot scenes with very low lighting. Noise is worst when you have too little light or when you underexpose your images, but those are not the same thing, since you can have too little light, but you will only make the situation worse by shooting at a very low exposure by setting too low of an ISO value. This is why we have ISO/gain..."
 
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I saw that posting on a board and it raised some questions....
 
Let's say I'm shooting on a cloudy day (exteriors only) and I put my ISO from 500 up lets say 1000, and I put the ND filters down, will I have less noise than if I shoot with the 500 ISO? Thoughts?

"A lot of people make the mistake of thinking low ISO means low noise. Low ISO means the noise starts showing up further into the shadows, but if your image is darker because you are using a too low an ISO, it will still have more noise. In most cases with cameras with hardware gain like the FS700, for example if you use 1stop higher ISO, your whole signal will be boosted by one stop and your noise might start showing up half a stop higher in the shadows, but that means you may have brought 1/2 a stop of your shadows out of the noise. This is a bit of a simplistic description, but you get the idea. The actual tradeoff will depend on the design of the sensor, but for hardware gain (up to a certain point, and some other cameras use software gain past that point) increasing ISO will usually give you less noise for the same scene, right up to the point when its too high an exposure and you have to stop increasing ISO to save your highlights.

Really high ISOs are noisier because they are used to shoot scenes with very low lighting. Noise is worst when you have too little light or when you underexpose your images, but those are not the same thing, since you can have too little light, but you will only make the situation worse by shooting at a very low exposure by setting too low of an ISO value. This is why we have ISO/gain..."
 
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I saw that posting on a board and it raised some questions....
 
Let's say I'm shooting on a cloudy day (exteriors only) and I put my ISO from 500 up lets say 1000, and I put the ND filters down, will I have less noise than if I shoot with the 500 ISO? Thoughts?

I'm looking to use one basic PP setting for shooting. This is my "wish list" of what I'd like:
 
 
No bleeding of reds and dark colors No muddy shades of color Most dynamic range for color correction ( if needed, some shots if not many, won't need it) Little to no video noise Least aliasing Flatest profile (not essential but a plus)

I'm working out my Picture Profiles for my feature and I had a few questions:
 
Which Cinegamma is best for cloudy days, and alongside the best Cinegamma for cloudy/overcast days, what are the best settings after selection Cinegamma for the best, least noise visuals? Obviously shooting in overcast, against darker colors like black, grays, buildings, grays, etc I'd like to have the least amount of video noise/grain, so I'd like to know what settings such as black level, gamma, knee, color mode, color level, color phase, etc are best for least to little to no noise?
 
I ask this because I am doing out of state shoots (8 hours away) for a documentary segment which will be on cloudy/overcast days (for that dark, brooding atmospheric feeling) next weekend and I wanted to really get the best picture profile that I can for an over-cast/cloudy day.
 
I will say that I like the flat profile look for color grading (most dynamic range), but perhaps there's a better option that I don't know about that someone can answer for me?

Aside from the obvious, of using a umbrella when shooting in the rain, and aside from flower cap hoods, are there any suggested products or things to use over the lens and filter that extends out that will reduce the chance or rain or snow from landing onto the lens filter?

That's the "ARRI Alexa" setting  ;)

Seems that aliasing is the main culprit here in Super Slow Motion due to frame rate being high and the camera not being able to handle it, which is fine, but I wanted to get your thoughts on the do's and don't for Super Slow Motion with the FS700. I have complied a list and am curious if anyone wants to add anything:
 
Do's:
Do shoot the following, especially in macro (based off of my test shoots so far) - the closeups seem to be the best for Super Slow Motion such as: Water from a faucet, Glasses Filled with Liquid/Bubbles both the top and the side, Blurred out of focus shots (for dreamy type of visuals and transitions).  
Do know your limitations.
 
Dont's:
 
Don't shoot sharp lines, etc like the following:
Shirts up close (the threads will alias), long thin hair, in-focus images against the sun (sharp images like in focus branches, greenery), sharp thin areas like wooden fences with lines, knives, building roof tops with lines, brick walls, etc.