Pavel Mašek

+1 for me

I dont have the 16-50S, way out of my budget unfortunatelly, these were all with Samyang 24mm f1.4 and Samyang 14mm f2.8. All of them are videoframes, even though the last ones dont have the black bars, thats because I forgot to add them.

I had promised myself not to post any more screens without actually posting a video, but I couldnt resist start grading some new stuff. I promise Ill post this video this week :3

Interesting comparo... A7Rii looks to be better than A7Sii at 3200iso:
http://***URL removed***/reviews/image-comparison/fullscreen?attr18=daylight&attr13_0=sony_a7rii&attr13_1=sony_a7sii&attr15_0=raw&attr15_1=raw&attr16_0=3200&attr16_1=3200&attr171_0=off&attr171_1=off&normalization=compare&widget=13&x=-0.7114353680119314&y=-0.5467697883462821

Have not tried 60fps, but I found that particularly in the shadows, reduced macroblocking is perhaps the most significant benefit to actually using an external recorder.

I'll shoot something for you tomorrow. 

Theres a post here on page 6-8 (cant remember) where theres a full tutorial on how to get a similar look to this one, for these, I just changed the curves to make the image flatter, when I get home I can share full settings !

Got to try the Sigma 18-35 yesterday, and I must say, what an amazing lens, incredibly sharp at 1.8, although a bit heavy and with a heavy focus/zoom ring, still an amazing lens.





Not much was put into the grading, just something simple, to test the lens !
Also took a few pics, though I dont usually photograph, heres one..

Please read these:
http://***URL removed***/forums/post/57133589
http://***URL removed***/forums/post/57133598

Right now is VIVID my best settings: 
Color: Red x0.95, Green x0.95. Blue x1.00, Saturation 0, Sharp. -10, Contrast -5, Hue -3°, MBL -8, 0-255 
Vivid is too much saturated and contrasty by default so I put contrast and MBL down to achieve better DR and keep colors correctly saturated without addional grading. 
Below is screen form video (just changed luminance from 0-255 to 0-235 in Premeire), no grading and RAW converted to jpg without any editing. I have to say I really like the result - by default is video much nicer that un-edited RAW. According my testing is DR similar to DynamicDR gamma but with better colors (BTW I think the pink on the face correspond with reality - it was really cold :-))
I will do more tests but I like so far... maybe I will play with hue and satuation a little and use color checker board.
 EDIT: I would now put hue to 0 as the result is probably too pinky

Has anyone done much testing in 'normal gamma' with contrast dialed all the way down? I just figured out how to do it (definitely a noob) and shot a quick test and highlight recovery is significantly better without a ton of noticable banding so far (some). shadows don't appear to benefit as much, but still. just wondering if anyone else has tried this and what the results were.

Been to busy filming this past week, heres a few shots, this will probably be not the final grade, but its getting there.
 

You can always blur the footage slightly. Easier to have the information and decrease detail than to sharpen detail that is not there. 

Learning a lot about the NX1 from this thread. Must be the best resource for this cam on the internet.
Tried to make my footage a bit more filmy today. Used the EOSHD Log Conversion LUT with a DELUT (Norwich) over the top. NX1 & 16-50/2-2.8.
 

took the nx1 on a first test run this afternoon, not confortable with video grading yet and I noticed too much red and magenta in the skintones highlights so far.
colors "feel very thin" to me already when grading so I will not lower the saturation in camera, happy with the DR and details.
All available light, should receive some led panels soon that will make things more interesting. All the same lens, Nikon 20mm f 2.8D
4kdci, gamma C, maximum black level, minimum contrast, minimum sharpness. I will try to upload to youtube in 4k.

Here is an updated link for the shogun file for you to play with:
https://drive.google.com/file/d/0BwO55ILG1OL-U3MxclpEQWRqWDA/view?usp=sharing

https://www.fotodioxpro.com/catalogsearch/result/?q=nd+throttle+nx1
NX1 ND throttle adapter! I already ordered, very glad they decided to make it for the NX mount.

it's not actually clipped, it's just displayed beyond the range. 16-235 in camera squeezes that extra bit into range, but it's not actually capturing any more info, it's just displayed that way. if you want to display your 0-255 clips as though it were 16-235 (thus displaying everything in range) simply add a fast color corrector, then change your output to 16-235. or, if you plan on using any decent color grading software (speedgrade/davinci) you'll have access to all that information still, and you can adjust it into range as you desire.

save file on computer and open in photoshop. That has only to do with the color shift and different color management of the different web browers. As long as the file has an attached color profile by opening it with photoshop you are ensuring it is displayed correctly.
it's not a conversion, all he is doing in that video is bringing the highlights down. If you want to understand what is going on, look at the bottom right of the video ( the red green and blue waveform) as he sets the output level to 235 the highlights shift down. The fact that he calls it "an error" and always sets the number 235 makes it unnecessarily confusing. All he is doing is bringing the highlights down to recover highlight information, you can do that with a variety of other tools as well. And always setting to 235 as if it is a magic number fix to that "error" is also unnecessary. Depending on the amount of highlight information that is above the displayed range it can be more or less.   

Allow me to explain further rimpamposh, because that video is explaining the situation in my opinion in a twisted and counter intuitive way IMO.
Lets look at the RGB waveform of this NX1 file:

If you look at the top of the waveform it seems the highlights are clipped. However pay attention to the bottom right Clamp Signal checkbox that is checked on and that I circled in green. That clamp signal checkbox, clamps the display of the highlight. It does not DISPLAY in the waveform scope the highlights above the 100 line. However the information is in the video file, it is simply not displayed because that checkbox is checked.
 
Lets have a look at what our waveform looks like once we uncheck it:

As you can see we have more highlight information visible in the waveform scope than what was previously displayed. 
And that is all that has changed, the clamped highlight information above 100 is now displayed in the waveform monitor only. In our video it is still out of range because it is above the 100 line, so in our video those highlights are still clipped. How do we recover that information and unclip the highlights in the video? 
This is where in the video he says to set the 235 number. You do not need to do specifically do that, and you can do it with a variety of tools. And that specific amount will not be adapted to every situation. All you want to do is bring the highlights down. That is all. In this instance I did it as following:

You can do it in different ways. Hope it helps.

Well, in my tests DCI actually produced (slightly) better resolution, so in my opinion that claim about UHD being better is total BS...it was true with early firmware versions, but not now. If you don't believe, check it out yourself, don't trust outdated tests.
More importantly, I shoot in 4K to have the flexibility to reframe for a FHD output, and DCI gives a bit more to work with. Also, I generally shoot with both NX1 and NX500, and shooting both in DCI 24p helps with combining the two footages into a multi-camera shot (on Premiere Pro). I also do 3D VFX work that is 24p. And I definitely don't care for film, so 23.976 is just an anachronism as far as I'm concerned.

finally admitting to myself that GammaDR, Sat-4,Contrast-10,MBL+10,16-235 is just too flat for 95% of stuff that's shot with this camera (with just so much banding)... 
So...just shot the same scene with a bunch of different settings including various gammas, contrast/saturation/mbl amounts, and changed up between 16-235 and 0-255. Shot proress hq to the shogun for all of it. I was planning on uploading still tiffs which should contain all the editable info needed, but would anyone prefer to have the whole prores file to mess with? post coming shortly. It's not every conceivable setting, but it should give us generally a good idea of where to go from here, especially with the luminence discussion.
I maybe could have shot some internal stuff, but honestly I think h265 is actually a pretty good codec (for 8 bit stuff) and i dont think outputting over hdmi is going to give a significant amount of help even with 422... at least on this camera (i found it quite helpful shooting externally on the a7s though).
should show off highlights, a little bit of shadow (back chair with figures on it) and banding on the back wall.

Ok here are some grabs from the scene. In some cases the banding I would honestly say is "acceptable" though not ideal.. and maybe thats just me being a little generous.
The grade contains about 60% of neat video denoising, which is more aggressive than what I really ever use. I was hoping it would help mitigate some of the banding problems.. and it does to some limited extent.
Jpegs:

Tiffs for better viewing:
 NX1_Color_Test_Close.tif
 NX1_Color_Test_Close_Graded.tif
 NX1_Color_Test_SideL.tif
 NX1_Color_Test_SideL_Graded.tif
 NX1_Color_Test_Wide.tif
 NX1_Color_Test_Wide_Graded.tif
Camera settings as follows:
Gamma DR, Contrast -10, Sharpness -10, Saturation -4, MBL +10, range is 16-235
Shogun set to capture in ProRes HQ
Now I'm definitely a noob to this camera (thus the testing) so I must ask, is there some other setting somewhere that I need to make sure is adjusted properly? Like a picture profile or something? HDMI is set to 3840x2160 (24) clean out.
Tomorrow I'm going to try the test again. I'll shoot/edit quickly to test different settings. What values of above should I change? I am planning on dropping contrast to 0 (I actually did drop it to -5 to test one shot, and the banding was still prevalent) and adjust MBL closer to 0, which seems a shame because in my earlier tests (as posted in this thread) I was able to get a TON of usable detail out of the shadows... but the banding just might not be worth it.
Also maybe you can edit the tiffs to have less banding, if so, how?
Please share your thoughts.

if you could setup a shot on a tripod that introduces banding and macroblocking issues, such as for example a white wall next to a window that is a little underexposed with gradual fall off of the light on the wall, to compare the internal vs 10-Bit 4:2:2 shogun that would be great. I would assume it makes no difference since the output of the nx1 is not 10bit 4:2:2 but would be interesting to check and compare.

Do you think it is necessary to export/import video after denoising?
I mean that if the Neat video is at the top in Effects and below is eg. Lumetri then the result should be same as export of denoised video and then import for grading (It think that in this case - Premiere firstly denoise video and then apply other effects in one task). You can avoid another compression. Am I correct?