QuickHitRecord

I have been spending too much money on equipment in recent years, and WAY too much time researching it. I really don't need anything else in terms of kit. What I do need is to replace my wardrobe and make some repairs to my home and my vehicle. Also, I'd like to spend more time producing passion projects.

So, I'm making a commitment that I will not buy any new gear between November 30th, 2023 and November 29th, 2024 (got to give myself the option to take advantage of Black Friday deals). If I need a specialty piece of gear, I will rent it.

The exceptions are expendables and direct replacements, should anything I'm using break down.

I've never done this before and I'm posting this to help keep myself accountable.

I have been spending too much money on equipment in recent years, and WAY too much time researching it. I really don't need anything else in terms of kit. What I do need is to replace my wardrobe and make some repairs to my home and my vehicle. Also, I'd like to spend more time producing passion projects.

So, I'm making a commitment that I will not buy any new gear between November 30th, 2023 and November 29th, 2024 (got to give myself the option to take advantage of Black Friday deals). If I need a specialty piece of gear, I will rent it.

The exceptions are expendables and direct replacements, should anything I'm using break down.

I've never done this before and I'm posting this to help keep myself accountable.

I have been spending too much money on equipment in recent years, and WAY too much time researching it. I really don't need anything else in terms of kit. What I do need is to replace my wardrobe and make some repairs to my home and my vehicle. Also, I'd like to spend more time producing passion projects.

So, I'm making a commitment that I will not buy any new gear between November 30th, 2023 and November 29th, 2024 (got to give myself the option to take advantage of Black Friday deals). If I need a specialty piece of gear, I will rent it.

The exceptions are expendables and direct replacements, should anything I'm using break down.

I've never done this before and I'm posting this to help keep myself accountable.

I have so much (including cameras and lenses I've never actually even shot anything with) and yet how many narrative short films have I worked on in the past year?
ONE.
Something has to change!

I have been spending too much money on equipment in recent years, and WAY too much time researching it. I really don't need anything else in terms of kit. What I do need is to replace my wardrobe and make some repairs to my home and my vehicle. Also, I'd like to spend more time producing passion projects.

So, I'm making a commitment that I will not buy any new gear between November 30th, 2023 and November 29th, 2024 (got to give myself the option to take advantage of Black Friday deals). If I need a specialty piece of gear, I will rent it.

The exceptions are expendables and direct replacements, should anything I'm using break down.

I've never done this before and I'm posting this to help keep myself accountable.

For reference, here are both cameras. Same lens and same camera settings. The C70, shooting Canon Raw Lite, is first and the R1MX is second. They weren't hard to match.
It's so close that I wonder why I am bothering with the cumbersome R1MX. But once I see the moving images, I'm reminded of why I go through the trouble.


 
 

You're right, there's no money to be made. At least not in 2023. I don't even bother mentioning to my existing clients that I have two older Red bodies. If I do, it's basically to sell them on my C70s. And honestly, if hired me to use them without a crew, it would be a pain and more stressful to me without the conveniences of modern features.
Also, I don't want to be hired for a passion project based on my camera. So I don't bring it up when networking with people in the local indie scene, unless they specifically ask.
All of this being said, I enjoy owning the camera that produces footage that just looks right to me. And it will be ready to go when I finally helm another of my own passion projects.

You're right, there's no money to be made. At least not in 2023. I don't even bother mentioning to my existing clients that I have two older Red bodies. If I do, it's basically to sell them on my C70s. And honestly, if hired me to use them without a crew, it would be a pain and more stressful to me without the conveniences of modern features.
Also, I don't want to be hired for a passion project based on my camera. So I don't bring it up when networking with people in the local indie scene, unless they specifically ask.
All of this being said, I enjoy owning the camera that produces footage that just looks right to me. And it will be ready to go when I finally helm another of my own passion projects.

I just bought a Scarlet-X that I am looking forward to working with. So that's my answer to the question posed in this thread. I already had lenses, batteries, and a monitor, so I purchased:
Scarlet-X brain with mini mag side module with dual fan replacement 2.0 (important!)
2x 480GB mini mags
Side grip
Red Pro top cheese plate
Red aluminum EF mount
V-mount battery solution (pretty difficult to find at a workable price!)
Nitze top handle and monitor mount

All in all, it set me back just under $3K.

I did a lot of research on the other legacy Red cameras before making this purchase. The Epic-X brains seem prone to failure. The Dragon-upgraded Epics and Scarlets have three OLPFs to choose from: Low Light (which is basically the same as the OLPF in front of the MX sensors and offers clean shadows but more limited highlights), Skintone/Highlight (nice highlight capture but noisy shadows above ISO 200), and the "Standard" OLPF which seems to fall somewhere in between the two extremes. Ultimately, I decided that clean shadows were more important to me than extra highlight range so I opted for the older MX sensor/OLPF.

Regarding crop, the more budget-friendly Scarlet-Xs are in the same boat as the Raven. The max resolution (disregarding the 12fps at 5K) on the Scarlet-X has a 1.14x crop when compared to 3perf Super35 film while he Raven has a 1.12x crop but is limited to a wider aspect ratio at that resolution. So they are pretty close in this regard. One thing to consider is that the Raven requires the ~$1K IO module if you want to plug a non-Red monitor into it, while the Scarlet comes with both SDI and HDMI ports standard. This pushed me over the edge and I decided to go with the older camera.

I did some side by side shots of the Scarlet-X with my Red One MX and have to say that I slightly prefer the image from the older camera (which is softer, cooler, and less contrasty). My original plan was to sell the R1MX, but now I'm having second thoughts.

I'm saying "in the real world" as shorthand for saying in a professional setting working with and for others on a filming production. 
Of course, if it is just for your own personal pleasure, then just use whatever warms your heart! 
Even the Barbie Doll Camera could be the right choice for you! 
 
Nice!! Start up your own thread @QuickHitRecord to track your Scarlet MX journey? Would be fascinating to follow. 
 
Why was this so difficult and expensive? Just need a setup for V lock to lemo power ? 
Such as:
https://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/1597736-REG/indipro_tools_vmrdk_v_mount_plate_with_15mm.html
https://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/1470774-REG/hedbox_unix_0b_v_mount_adapter_power.html 
Interesting... more prone to failure than the Scarlet-X?? That's curious
Isn't the Dragon sensor a bit better at low light? As well as a stop more dynamic range? Thought Dragon also has more naturally accurate colors and better skin tones? 
Cheers for that detailed analysis! I would have thought the newer DSMC2 body of the RED Raven vs the older DSMC1 makes it a slam dank case for the RED Raven (if they're both at the same price. Unless you want PL lenses, which the Raven can't handle. Which to be fair, is by itself a strong argument against the RED Raven)
That is just begging to be reversed engineered.... ! Make your own DSMC2 I/O module. 
Even though they've both got "the same MX sensor" I've heard others who prefer the RED ONE as well. Perhaps all that extra weight and processing power gives it a little extra magical something?
 

I just bought a Scarlet-X that I am looking forward to working with. So that's my answer to the question posed in this thread. I already had lenses, batteries, and a monitor, so I purchased:
Scarlet-X brain with mini mag side module with dual fan replacement 2.0 (important!)
2x 480GB mini mags
Side grip
Red Pro top cheese plate
Red aluminum EF mount
V-mount battery solution (pretty difficult to find at a workable price!)
Nitze top handle and monitor mount

All in all, it set me back just under $3K.

I did a lot of research on the other legacy Red cameras before making this purchase. The Epic-X brains seem prone to failure. The Dragon-upgraded Epics and Scarlets have three OLPFs to choose from: Low Light (which is basically the same as the OLPF in front of the MX sensors and offers clean shadows but more limited highlights), Skintone/Highlight (nice highlight capture but noisy shadows above ISO 200), and the "Standard" OLPF which seems to fall somewhere in between the two extremes. Ultimately, I decided that clean shadows were more important to me than extra highlight range so I opted for the older MX sensor/OLPF.

Regarding crop, the more budget-friendly Scarlet-Xs are in the same boat as the Raven. The max resolution (disregarding the 12fps at 5K) on the Scarlet-X has a 1.14x crop when compared to 3perf Super35 film while he Raven has a 1.12x crop but is limited to a wider aspect ratio at that resolution. So they are pretty close in this regard. One thing to consider is that the Raven requires the ~$1K IO module if you want to plug a non-Red monitor into it, while the Scarlet comes with both SDI and HDMI ports standard. This pushed me over the edge and I decided to go with the older camera.

I did some side by side shots of the Scarlet-X with my Red One MX and have to say that I slightly prefer the image from the older camera (which is softer, cooler, and less contrasty). My original plan was to sell the R1MX, but now I'm having second thoughts.

I just bought a Scarlet-X that I am looking forward to working with. So that's my answer to the question posed in this thread. I already had lenses, batteries, and a monitor, so I purchased:
Scarlet-X brain with mini mag side module with dual fan replacement 2.0 (important!)
2x 480GB mini mags
Side grip
Red Pro top cheese plate
Red aluminum EF mount
V-mount battery solution (pretty difficult to find at a workable price!)
Nitze top handle and monitor mount

All in all, it set me back just under $3K.

I did a lot of research on the other legacy Red cameras before making this purchase. The Epic-X brains seem prone to failure. The Dragon-upgraded Epics and Scarlets have three OLPFs to choose from: Low Light (which is basically the same as the OLPF in front of the MX sensors and offers clean shadows but more limited highlights), Skintone/Highlight (nice highlight capture but noisy shadows above ISO 200), and the "Standard" OLPF which seems to fall somewhere in between the two extremes. Ultimately, I decided that clean shadows were more important to me than extra highlight range so I opted for the older MX sensor/OLPF.

Regarding crop, the more budget-friendly Scarlet-Xs are in the same boat as the Raven. The max resolution (disregarding the 12fps at 5K) on the Scarlet-X has a 1.14x crop when compared to 3perf Super35 film while he Raven has a 1.12x crop but is limited to a wider aspect ratio at that resolution. So they are pretty close in this regard. One thing to consider is that the Raven requires the ~$1K IO module if you want to plug a non-Red monitor into it, while the Scarlet comes with both SDI and HDMI ports standard. This pushed me over the edge and I decided to go with the older camera.

I did some side by side shots of the Scarlet-X with my Red One MX and have to say that I slightly prefer the image from the older camera (which is softer, cooler, and less contrasty). My original plan was to sell the R1MX, but now I'm having second thoughts.

Great thread idea. Maybe we can all hold each other accountable as we strive towards our goals.
I'm a career DP/videographer. I'm 14 years in at this point. In 2024, I want to:
Finish updating my reel (always a struggle) Finally put profiles up on Mandy, StaffMeUp, and IMDB Reach out to a different producer every other week Write and direct at least one short scripted narrative Not spend any money on camera gear (unless something breaks and needs to be fixed) And shoot a couple of projects with each of these two old MX bodies, so that I can decide which to keep and which to send back out into the world

This is a great resource. Thanks for sharing. However, my version of Resolve 18.5 Studio cannot see the BRAW files. I click on the folder in Media Storage, but it appears empty in the browser. Has anyone else been able to get it to work? Or are these files just too new for the latest version of Resolve?

Thanks. That worked. Funny how not all BRAW files are measured equal.

Initially, I was disappointed that it wasn't a box cam. But watching some of the demo footage, this might be their first sensor ever that I really like the look of. I just bought an old Red Scarlet-X and that is going to keep me busy for (hopefully) a few more years. But I am looking forward to seeing more footage from this camera. The included OLPF is a big deal and can have a major effect on the look of footage in either a good or bad way. I'm thinking that it might be a good way here.

My guess is a new modular Pocket-style box camera with built-in NDs like the 6K Pro.

My guess is a new modular Pocket-style box camera with built-in NDs like the 6K Pro.

This was my main work camera for two years. I struggled with it. Coming from the C100, I thought that it would be a home run but I found myself missing the C100 a lot. The C100 was easier to handhold, had more reliable DPAF (even though it was center-weighted), and monitoring wasn't as confusing.
I was unimpressed with the H264 and only used CRL, recorded to a Solidpod that I mounted externally. Other C200 shooters have told me that they are okay with the noise levels, but to me the CRL footage was noisier than I was comfortable for client work at ISO 400 or above. After almost every shoot I would run NeatVideo on all of my footage, apply a LUT (unless they wanted CLOG2), and export ProRes files before handing it off to my clients. The resulting footage was really nice, but it took a lot to get there.
The day that I shipped the C200 out, I breathed a sigh of relief. I now have a C70, which addresses all of my problems with the C200.

How about renting a Canon C70? If the sun is out, shooting in a forest can require a lot of dynamic range, and the C70 will deliver on that end. Also, it has long battery life and with a relatively small file sizes. Since you are working alone, the built-in NDs and dual pixel autofocus will make your life a lot easier and your "keeper" rate will be higher.

Of course, the C200 covers these bases too, but is either a bit soft (H264) or will require denoising (raw) in post.
I made a living with two C100s for five years, including several shoots in the forest. I loved that camera, but it didn't have the dynamic range necessary to capture pools of light as well as shadow detail in the woods. Of course, it's possible to work around it:
Otherwise, you might look at the FX30 or S5ii/x -- but I haven't used either of these cameras.

I ended up ordering a Leofoto BV-30M, which has the distinction of being one of the few flat-base fluid heads with an continuously adjustable counterbalance. The caveat is that there aren't many reviews (I only found one) so I'm going to be a guinea pig on this one. It looks like they have a good return policy and a 10-year warranty, so I'll see if it works for me.

How about renting a Canon C70? If the sun is out, shooting in a forest can require a lot of dynamic range, and the C70 will deliver on that end. Also, it has long battery life and with a relatively small file sizes. Since you are working alone, the built-in NDs and dual pixel autofocus will make your life a lot easier and your "keeper" rate will be higher.

Of course, the C200 covers these bases too, but is either a bit soft (H264) or will require denoising (raw) in post.
I made a living with two C100s for five years, including several shoots in the forest. I loved that camera, but it didn't have the dynamic range necessary to capture pools of light as well as shadow detail in the woods. Of course, it's possible to work around it:
Otherwise, you might look at the FX30 or S5ii/x -- but I haven't used either of these cameras.

Thanks Kye,
With a medium rig as my GH5 it's a completely different story.
My camera housing has three 1" spheres integrated so I can attach clamps and legs as tripod for macro or details which requires a stable position.

 
Fow wide angle shoot I just remove the legs, mount a diffrrent lens and port and I change floating arms to get a different bouyancy and trim.

Love the colour. The lens interestingly hazes quiet vintage style in the strong backlight shot. You should do a breakdown of your findings regarding colourwork and exposure from the Sigma FP thread. I watched your Sirui Anamorphic 1.6 test. Looking lovely. What are your estimations on the set? @OleB
Lovely stuff you all. I already posted some of my semipro work on this forum. Was mostly doing colour work last year, last hurray so to say before all auto on the newest Davinci version will do the job.:) Anyway, here is my first paid music video, directing, producing, lighting, DPing, editing the thing. All shots inside filmed against a small wall in a small living room;) Shot on one day, shots and lighting done spontaneously on location. Had a friend as AC for 90% of the shots thanx gosh. Most inside was GH5 at ISO400 VLog, S1 as BCam for the golden pattern lit background shot inside and three handheld lowlight shots outside. Sorry for reposting, if some of you mind:)
 

Here we go. 🙂