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Jon Pais is not Ebrahim Sr... Because... I am the illegitimate love child of Ebrahim Sr and Steve Bannon. Whew... I’ve never said that aloud before.

Nobody has used the word SLRs in 15 years. ? You have to be 100 years old LoL. And when I think of a bridge camera it has a Zoom on it. If not it is a fixed lens camera. And that does not harken any thought of a bridge camera to me.

I decided to test some 48fps with the regular 14bit ML build. I processed it as Alexa LogC 24fps through the MLV App. As suspected... since it’s less than HD... it’s soft, but for short close ups... it could work in a pinch. Any updates on the slow motion capabilities with the experimental 10/12 bit modes?

http://www.koreanfilm.or.kr/eng/news/kofic_news.jsp?mode=VIEW&seq=1763&blbdComCd=601007 "50% lower" is a broad statement, 50% lower than who exactly? If it is 50% lower than the current cheapest anamorphic lenses then this is exciting, but if it is 50% off $50K well maybe not so much.....

@mercer the MLV Lite module is nearly able to do all the things the regular raw module does (including sound recording), and it uses less processing power, so I think there's a discussion going on about getting rid of the regular raw module and making MLV Lite the standard one. There isn't much difference between the two modules in terms of what they're like to use. The EOS M is only worth using in crop mode, and the current resolution options means it's not great at all for anamorphic filming. The max available resolution till very recently was 2520x1080 (2.33:1 aspect ratio). At this resolution recording is continuous at 10 bit lossless, and nearly continuous at 12 bit lossless. Crop is 3.33x from full frame (which will be 2.36x crop with the upcoming speed booster). Now it's also possible to shoot up to 2520x1384 (16:9) at 24fps. However when you increase the vertical resolution beyond 1080, the lowest bitrate setting you can select is 14 bit lossless, which limits record times to about 2 seconds only! However, as I'm sure you know with Magic Lantern you can select any resolution lower than the maximum and any aspect ratio you like, to get better record times. For example, with 2224x1200 in 14 bit lossless I currently get 10-15 seconds record time. The exciting news is that the SD card overclock hack is being developed even further to increase the clock frequency from 160mhz up to the UHS-I maximum of 208mhz. When (and if) that happens then 80mb/s write speed should be possible on the EOS M and other digic 5 cameras (as opposed to 55mb/s write speed that the current hack allows). This should enable continuous recording at 2520x1384.

I think it’s the SLR Magic anamorphic primes they are using. IMO those lenses are garbage. They should have just rented some Cookes.

Arri has a 2.8K mode in the Alexa. 2.8K 4:3 (2944x2160) and 2K Anamorphic(2048x858)

The eos-m really is the camera that keeps on giving. I still have mine in the back of my closet with a Cosmicar 12-75mm permanently attached to it. I’ve been considering uploading a newer ML build on it, even just for the bitrate hack. Does the eos-m have anamorphic mode in ML? If so, I thought that could be fun to mess around with. Right now though, I am interested in finally updating my 5D3 to a newer build and trying to get a little more resolution or higher frame rates out of it. I think @squig shoots 2.8K with his but I don’t even know if it’s 10/12 bit or MLV Lite. I haven’t been keeping up with the ML progress in a while, but a 2.8K downscale to 2K sounds pretty perfect to me... I think another company makes cameras that are similar to that process. But I assume there’s a crop involved, which I am not completely sure I want to get into yet... I just got used to FF FOV... but I guess with the crop, some more lens options open up.

Olympus 45mm f1.8. You get a bit extra bokeh because the focal plane isnt flat at the sides (I think the Lenstip review talks about this, they have compared all options in this range). Mine had a slight yellow cast as well which made images look better straight away. It is well within your budget and the bokeh is smoother than the 42.5mm f1.7. But the latter has OIS. Try them both in a store. The Panasonic is a bit sharper but the bokeh a bit busier. Also try the Sigma 60mm f2.8 which has a similar depth of field (depending on distance). The 60 is not too long, ridiculously sharp for the $200 price and has nice smooth bokeh. The 60 is less easy to use manually and bigger, but once you see the sharpness you will probably accept that. If you want sharpness and subject separation I would get the Sigma. If you want a smoother more filmic look get the Olympus. I think someone compared the Olympus to the f1.2 version and said the bokeh was the same smoothness, obviously just not as heavy. If you would consider manual: 7Artisans should come out with a M43 version of their new 35mm f1.2 soon (it is on B&H as back order). It is out of stock in many places so they may be doing a big new batch and I think they may add M43 on. The focus ring isnt the smoothest but it is shaped nicely making focusing a nice experience. These types of Chinese lenses often come in M43 mounts and often have clickless aperture rings. Their brand new 50mm f1.8 has a M43 version and looks nice, but the 35mm f1.2 is so tempting and apparently a pretty sharp lens. Feels really solid and is tiny for a f1.2.

@Alpicat looks good, I dig the music too. Have you thought about buying a 5D3? This looks awesome. I love when I scroll down my IG page and see your ML Raw videos.

@hmcindie nice colours and very intense! well done! I recently sold my Canon 50D as I wasn't using it much after I bought my EOS M. Here's the last video I did with it, using a Tamron 18-200mm II lens, which isn't particularly great:

You want to audition as a mod or something? At least get it right. The Atlas lens is a completely different thing https://learn.sharegrid.com/sharegrid-lens-test-atlas-lens-co-orion-series-anamorphic

If you want good Manual Focus with a Native lens you Only have one choice. The Olympus lenses with the MF clutch. Ante up or fold as they say in Poker.

There's already a post discussing this topic...

@webrunner5Great article, almost how I test my filters. Unfortunately, 99% of all YT filter reviews are rubbish, as none of them uses a color card and some don't even show with/without comparisons, making the reviews useless. Unless you rely on you're favorite Youtubers personal (paid, lol) option. Unfortunately, testing ND filter is very tricky and time-consuming if you do it properly. Just showing a video with the filter is of course not enough, as your eyes easily trick you and you may find the colors pleasing even if they are completely off. If you want to test a filter properly, you have to do the following (my personal opinion of course): 1. Shoot a color card, with the filter and without the filter. Load them in your favorite editing application and look at the vectorscopes. This and only this allows you the really judge the color shift of the filter. A datacolor or x-rite color card is perfect as you can easily analyze the vectorscope without having to rely on your "opinion", "taste" on your maybe not color corrected monitor. 2. Don't forget about WB!! Almost no damn YT review will tell you, how they set the WB. This makes a HUGE difference! Shoot with a fixed WB and with/without the filter will show you the real color cast/change of the filter. With WB set to Auto, your camera can help to lower the color cast, but it's not that simple of course. An ND filter blocks light in a non-uniform way across the light spectrum and and light intensity. Therefore auto WB can never completely reverse the color shifts of a filter. Same for the tint adjustment. If it would be that easy, you could buy any cheap filter and correct it in postproduction (ignoring the effect on the sharpness of course). Unfortunately, I started to make these "real" (my personal opinion!!) test with my filter and got really disappointed by almost all of them, no matter how well praised (Tiffen) or expensive they are. If you want to do yourself a favor, it's maybe better to stay away for such test Then the final question arises, how good can you correct the color changes from an ND filter? Unfortunately, there is no one-click solution nor a preset you can use. I tried to make one myself (with a color card of course), but the LUT I got only worked on that specific scene I generated it from. Also, a variable ND filter changes its effect on colors based on the strength you set it to. Even more complicated then. Keep in mind, I'm not a professional, just an enthusiast with some scientific background trying to do my best to get a good result from my videos. Feel free to correct me if needed! Chris

Eh, what!? The Kinefinity is the same design as a Red in the same way a Canon DSLR is the same design as a Nikon one, or a Sony ENG camera the same design as a Panasonic one, or a Brand A car fundamentally the same design as a brand B car. They all have the same basic design and configuration.

Looks really nice. Art 35mm is quite under-rated around here. A lot of fashion photographers use it these days.

thank you guys! i was shooting on the top level of a parking garage with IS off until mall security came to complain... i need my own security guard... security to stop the security... ?

Get your credit card out. You can buy them that cheap quite often on ebay anymore. Past closed auctions last few months. Now with the DPAF in them they go for 1500 bucks or more. Not sure if Canon is still changing out the sensor for 500 bucks yet, but I was going to buy one cheap without it and save up the money and send it in later. Not as big as a hit money wise at one time. They do have a Push AF button on the front of the body so it is not like you have no AF in one. Pretty much what I used on my Panny AF100A a lot of times. https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_trksid=m570.l1313&_nkw=Canon+C100&_sacat=0&LH_TitleDesc=0&_udlo=&_sop=15&_sadis=15&_udhi=&_ex_kw=&_samihi=&_samilow=&_stpos=45056&_sargn=-1%26saslc%3D1&_salic=1&_in_kw=1&_dmd=1&_odkw=Canon+C100&_osacat=0&LH_Complete=1&_ipg=200

Yeah but that is at the extremes at both ends. I don't want to have a Epileptic Seizure watching someones super quick edits, or fall asleep with the lack of skill to edit at all. ? But I guess if we all did it sort of the same it would be boring as heck. I can always turn off the monitor LoL.

you can discuss the technique all you want, but when people write that they LOVE IT in CAPITAL LETTERS... it doesnt get any better than that

And so it begins...

Cool video. I shoot almost exclusively handheld and one technique that seems to work is to either hold the camera still enough for the IS to simulate a locked off tripod shot, or to be deliberately moving the camera in a direction (pan, tilt, whatever) because then the micro-movements from hand-shake kind of get hidden by the larger movements you're making intentionally. I've also found that panning with IS is a bit strange. It's like the lens has 'modes' where it thinks you're stationary or you're panning, and it can be very difficult to get the lens to understand that you're panning (and will jerk and be strange) but once it works it out then it will stabilise the pan quite well. I guess that depends on the lens though. The main lenses I have experience with for IS is the kit 18-55 and 55-250 APSC lenses and the built-in lens of the XC10, but they're all Canon so might be similar to the IS in your 85mm.

Nice work. I really liked the tone of this video. And man, that 85mm looks insane. How’s the IS on it? Also, excuse my ignorance... but what’s that little drone you were using?

And Every one of the examples on Wiki show a camera with a zoom lens that has a huge range! You conveniently only read the first paragraph. Nobody on here relates a bridge camera to something that used film, Nobody. Hell you must be 30 years older than I am to think that LoL. ?

I’d rather have the 180, personally. But I’ve only used Shutter Priority once or twice outdoors with a variable ND, so I was able to trick the camera into opening up the aperture. It worked well on both the RX10ii and the FZ2500. But Auto ISO range in manual mode would be my choice, in most instances, if I needed a semi-auto mode.

Forgot to mention: + Almost no latency with a 1080p signal. It's only noticeable at all on very fast whip pans. I have not tried with a 4k signal yet.

? (This is from an actual "workshop" promo video. Un-fucking-real.)

Bet you were the coolest kid in town that day!

The OP is doing multiple exposures so the images have to be in perfect registration so IS has to be off for this use. Other scenarios may well differ. When I mount my Canon IS lenses on my GH5 I get the choice of using the lens IS or body IS and it's clear that the body IS is doing a much better job for video than the lens IS. I don't shoot stills with my GH5 so it may be different in that situation. Most tripods suffer from 'jitters' when you are using a long lens and there is any breeze around so it's often advantageous to keep IS on in these situations for a locked off shot.The GH5's IS system is pretty amazing esp the dual IS and even more especially the 'IS lock' setting which has in a lot of situations made my tripod redundant.

Nice little edit ? Because I only tend to get enough motivation up to get through editing when I go on actual trips or family outings I think it would take me more like 500 years to get 10 years experience! I do camera tests and kind of get to know my equipment and what modes work etc, but the feedback I'm missing is the storytelling and finer aspects you only get through going through the complete edit process. That's kind of how I work - I shoot a lot but don't edit much except big projects. It still takes a long time before the camera sits nicely in the hand and the dials stop squirming around and just sit nicely where your fingers go to access them when you're not looking etc. Nice! Yes, young children would make excellent practice subjects running around having fun. My kids are 14 and 12 and are more in the 'get that thing out of my face' stage ???

To me, shooting stills with manual focus is a pretty good way to practice, and you're only editing stills afterwards instead of video. You learn different framings and lenses and the muscle memory for focus pulling in unpredictable situations. Shooting doc-style stuff also helps. One way to practice is to reach out to friends or people who interest you and shoot a short profile piece. Something you can shoot in a day and edit in a weekend. Here's one such piece - an interview with a former bank robber that I did when I was researching and working on a feature script. I didn't have a sound person and borrowed a couple camera bodies and just operated all three cameras myself and did the interview. But as they say, "the only way to get ten years experience is... to work for ten years."

Well well we all have to admit as of late the line between "Professional" and "Consumer" have really narrowed. When I was most of you guys age you either worked for a place that did video, or you bought a $200.00 at the time spring powered 8mm movie camera. If you were rich you had a Bolex, or my dream camera, a Beaulieu 4008 ZM Camera. They made beautiful looking cameras. Not too many choices compared to today. Now with the 4K BMPCC coming out it can nearly compete with rich people on an equal footing. The GH5s is amazing, the Sony A7 mk III is, the ML Canon 5D mk III, Canon C100, on and on. We live in an amazing time for video. It is now down to skill more than gear. The tables have leveled. No real excuse these days to not get the job done.

Can confirm. It's not. FWIW, I put the GH5 IS on par with the GX85. Fuji lens IS is good too. But then again, with body internal stabilization you can apply it to any and all lenses.

Yeah, OT but I was so surprised by how good Canon IS lenses are. As much as I enjoyed IBIS on my old GX85, I really don’t think it was any better than the IS on some Canon lenses.

These days IS is so good that it doesn't matter for a lot of cameras. I've left it on accidentally and it was fine. HOWEVER it's good practice, and worth playing it safe, to turn it off.

Canon’s Chuck Westfall explains it well: “The IS mechanism operates by correcting shake. When there is no shake, or when the level of shake is below the threshold of the system’s detection capability, use of the IS feature may actually *add* unwanted blur to the photograph, therefore you should shut it off in this situation. Remember that the IS lens group is normally locked into place. When the IS function is active, the IS lens group is unlocked so it can be moved by the electromagnetic coil surrounding the elements. When there’s not enough motion for the IS system to detect, the result can sometimes be a sort of electronic ‘feedback loop,’ somewhat analogous to the ringing noise of an audio feedback loop we’re all familiar with. As a result, the IS lens group might move while the lens is on a tripod, unless the IS function is switched off and the IS lens group is locked into place.”

I would recommend against Vari ND and get a nice Tiffen ND kit with XUME magnetic filter adapters. I have this same kit and using the magnets are a breeze! Vari ND is always terrible because it takes the natural reflections out of people’s skin tones. Not to mention the price you pay for one with minimal image shift. Also Vari ND vignettes really easily. But mostly the reason I don’t use them is the way people look with them. It’s two polarizers put together so it’s going to remove those reflections.

Really? Does that require an answer? You think that, yourself, a person who has bullied and harassed multiple people on this forum for years, including a really prominent DP, John Brawley, can continue such behavior and be free from my dorky act of "downvoting"? With your continual act of calling people "assholes" and "f*ckers" and using sexual harassment towards said members. Well at least you are no longer an admin. You may be in your 70's, but you act like you're 16. And maybe you actually are 16, and pretending to be 61. Or maybe you are Ebrahim's real father, or the real Ebrahim. Or maybe you don't exist. You are just a figment of Ebrahim Jr's imagination, and this whole time he is laughing, laughing with his SLR rangefinder and playstation 4.