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Your ideal NX1 Settings


Geoff CB
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IMO these kinds of look adjustments are best done in post. For the shoot, I think it's best to focus on getting the right information (i.e., technically good footage amenable to grading) depending on the scene and lighting. An in-camera look that works beautifully for one scene may be a fail for others.

I mean...the point of making these adjustments in camera is so we have a better outcome in post. Check your vectorscope with any of these profiles at default settings and the red & blue are totally outside of the limits. As you know red and yellow are found in skin tones...not everything can be saved in post you do still introduce artifacting and an exaggeration of chrominance noise. You are not losing vital info by lowering saturation, contrast yeah but not saturation. Test it out yourself and let me know your findings. I always tweak in camera settings to optimize what I can achieve in post

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As promised here are some grabs. Sorry guys these are from the outdoor shots are from Gamma DR and the indoor Gamma C. I'll do a test with the vivid setting for the NX500 users. Anyway I find it better to use the contrasty Gamma C indoors and at night because realistically you do not need a lot of dynamic range in those kind of scenes. I don't need night sky or shadows that don't help build the story of my image to have details...all that is important is the midtones which they capture really well. In day time Gamma DR flattens the scene at the default contrast enough to have a balanced looking image...again I wouldn't use it at night and indoors. The point is to maximize not only the signal to noise ratio but optimizing the very few bits we have to spare with the 8 bit codec as effective as possible. Don't judge the final quality by the grabs here....they look VERY compressed in comparison.

dragon nx1.jpg

gator nx1.jpg

hallway nx1.jpg

nx1 organic look 4.jpg

nx1 organic look.jpg

old man nx1.jpg

pueblo nx1.jpg

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As promised here are some grabs. Sorry guys these are from the outdoor shots are from Gamma DR and the indoor Gamma C. I'll do a test with the vivid setting for the NX500 users. Anyway I find it better to use the contrasty Gamma C indoors and at night because realistically you do not need a lot of dynamic range in those kind of scenes. I don't need night sky or shadows that don't help build the story of my image to have details...all that is important is the midtones which they capture really well. In day time Gamma DR flattens the scene at the default contrast enough to have a balanced looking image...again I wouldn't use it at night and indoors. The point is to maximize not only the signal to noise ratio but optimizing the very few bits we have to spare with the 8 bit codec as effective as possible. Don't judge the final quality by the grabs here....they look VERY compressed in comparison.

dragon nx1.jpg

gator nx1.jpg

hallway nx1.jpg

nx1 organic look 4.jpg

nx1 organic look.jpg

old man nx1.jpg

pueblo nx1.jpg

some pretty wide shots there.  Which lenses did you use?

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some pretty wide shots there.  Which lenses did you use?

canon fd 14mm f2.8 L & a canon fd 24mm f1.4 L ?

Just started shooting a music video this weekend, only test shots though, grading isnt final either, here are a few : 

SI3y5B4.jpgSonB5DV.jpgbgGwa4s.jpguKGZvSb.jpg

PShyKvw.jpg

 

I like the look of this ! Very muted tone ?, what lenses did you use ?

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I've found that my old Canon FD glass works wonders on this camera in low light as well. But I am blown away by the sharpness of the image with the S Lens. I really want to get the 50-150 S as well. 

 

what lens adapter do you use with your fd glass ? I am torn between the samsung lens you have and the sigma art lenses lol. Is it easy to manual focus or is the focus by wire element too distracting ?

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I have been using this Fotasy adapter http://www.amazon.com/Fotasy-NXFD-Samsung-Mirrorless-Adapter/dp/B004HI4PPC/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1449287634&sr=8-1&keywords=fd+to+nx+adapter. It isn't anything fancy, but it does the trick. And the glass looks very good. 

I haven't used the Sigmas, but I hear they are pretty darn awesome. But my experience with the S lens has been pretty special. What I love about it is that in a situation where you may need autofocus in video, the lens is astounding. It even looks like a clean focus pull (and it's AF, crazy). The manual focusing on it is actually much better than I expected. Haven't had the normal issues of focus by wire on the lens yet. I bet you can't tell how much I like the lens, eh? Haha.

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what lens adapter do you use with your fd glass ? I am torn between the samsung lens you have and the sigma art lenses lol. Is it easy to manual focus or is the focus by wire element too distracting ?

I'd also agree that the manual focus on the 16-50 S lens is really smooth. Doesn't feel cheap or jerky. And the auto focus is great too in single auto focus mode. I have not had much luck using it in continuous. But I love tapping the screen and having it focus exactly where I want.

The sigma 18-35 works nicely on the NX1. Really sharp, great lens. Fotasy G adapter with aperture control ring is decent and inexpensive.

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I'd also agree that the manual focus on the 16-50 S lens is really smooth. Doesn't feel cheap or jerky. And the auto focus is great too in single auto focus mode. I have not had much luck using it in continuous. But I love tapping the screen and having it focus exactly where I want.
The sigma 18-35 works nicely on the NX1. Really sharp, great lens. Fotasy G adapter with aperture control ring is decent and inexpensive.

That's good to hear about the Sigma. I have always wanted to try them. For all intents and purposes, I have heard they are just beautiful. I will definitely pick some up down the road. 

I hear you about the autofocus on it. It's incredible how well it works. I also found continuous AF wasn't the best, but single auto mode works brilliantly. It honestly looks like someone is pulling focus with just a little tap on the screen. And it locks on whatever you choose 95% of the time in a way that is actually cinematic like a good focus puller would. Now, I think for most cinematic film shoots, having a focus puller is probably the best way to go - but if you are in a pinch, it is quite stunning what the lens can do.

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I just bought a TON of nikon ais lenses on ebay. I hope the color rendition favors the rendering of the NX1 sensor which was already gorgeous with my FD set. I hear the nikons are more contrasty & the shorter focus throw would make it ideal for my run and gun style. Too bad nikon doesn't make anything fast & wide ? ! No matter I prefer the look of a 28mm on crop. It gives you a hint of wide angle distortion with a near 50mm field of view. Excited to see what this brings to the NX1, you guys shots look really good with your lens sets !

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I just bought a TON of nikon ais lenses on ebay. I hope the color rendition favors the rendering of the NX1 sensor which was already gorgeous with my FD set. I hear the nikons are more contrasty & the shorter focus throw would make it ideal for my run and gun style. Too bad nikon doesn't make anything fast & wide ? ! No matter I prefer the look of a 28mm on crop. It gives you a hint of wide angle distortion with a near 50mm field of view. Excited to see what this brings to the NX1, you guys shots look really good with your lens sets !

Nice, what did you get?

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Nice, what did you get?

nikon 28mm f2.8 ais, nikon 35mm f1.4 ais, nikon 50mm f1.2 ais, nikon 85mm f1.4 ais

was kinda screaming about the fact that I couldn't find a fast wide angle for the crop sensor and then I remembered how many wide angles I bought when I shot full frame that was catching dust in my camera bag LOL. The crop should help cut out the softening in the corners at wide apertures

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