- I was shooting very quick, improvising as we went. This meant the Tokina ATX diopter went off and on the Kowa a lot. It inevitably got smudges, etc. Those with Tokina ATX diopters . . . how do you clean them? I tried a Zeiss lens cloth, but that left streaks. I'm seriously considering permanent protective glass either side of the Tokina seeing as it is an expensive, rare, high damage-risk type of item. Am I crazy for considering this?
- How do you cap the back of your Kowa when not in use? I have the Redstan clamp set, which is great, and I'm thinking of getting a threaded rear cap that fits the rear Redstan clamp. Are there other options?
- How to support the Kowa's weight? There's no denying, the Kowa is a massive chunk of glass and metal. The weight of it puts a lot of stress on the focusing mechanism of the spherical "taking" lens that it is mounted to . . . so much so that many of my taking lenses seize up, almost unable to focus. Does anyone have a support solution for alleviating the weight of the Kowa? Perhaps one designed for a 15mm rod system? A regular lens support won't work with any taking lens with a moving front (most older lenses). It needs to both support the Kowa and slide in and out with the taking lens as it focuses.
- Has anyone tried pulling focus with two pullers and two follow focus units? Theoretically, this should be possible . . . assuming the camera and actor movements are accurate. Does anyone have a gear on their Kowa? Just curious

Some Anamorphic Lens Care Questions
#1
Posted 11 August 2012 - 06:31 AM
#2
Posted 11 August 2012 - 06:53 AM
I used to own a Bell & Howell, which is very similar to your Kowa.
I was shooting very quick, improvising as we went. This meant the Tokina ATX diopter went off and on the Kowa a lot. It inevitably got smudges, etc. Those with Tokina ATX diopters . . . how do you clean them? I tried a Zeiss lens cloth, but that left streaks. I'm seriously considering permanent protective glass either side of the Tokina seeing as it is an expensive, rare, high damage-risk type of item. Am I crazy for considering this?
This has been doing well for me: http://www.bhphotovi...g_Kit_with.html
Be gentle and make sure not to spray the solution on the glass directly.
How do you cap the back of your Kowa when not in use? I have the Redstan clamp set, which is great, and I'm thinking of getting a threaded rear cap that fits the rear Redstan clamp. Are there other options?
A generic lens cap like this: http://www.bhphotovi...ch_Snap_On.html
Your diameter may be different than mine was.
How to support the Kowa's weight? There's no denying, the Kowa is a massive chunk of glass and metal. The weight of it puts a lot of stress on the focusing mechanism of the spherical "taking" lens that it is mounted to . . . so much so that many of my taking lenses seize up, almost unable to focus. Does anyone have a support solution for alleviating the weight of the Kowa? Perhaps one designed for a 15mm rod system? A regular lens support won't work with any taking lens with a moving front (most older lenses). It needs to both support the Kowa and slide in and out with the taking lens as it focuses.
Not a perfect solution (it was blocked from full coverage of the RedStan clamp by screws), but this helps: http://www.ebay.com/...#ht_1234wt_1136
Has anyone tried pulling focus with two pullers and two follow focus units? Theoretically, this should be possible . . . assuming the camera and actor movements are accurate. Does anyone have a gear on their Kowa? Just curious
Never had the manpower. You could be the first! But make sure to get it on camera (a different camera).
#3
Posted 11 August 2012 - 07:17 AM
#4
Posted 11 August 2012 - 02:41 PM
- Caleb Genheimer likes this
#5
Posted 14 August 2012 - 06:10 PM
it is easier for me to use chinese pig iron bolts but it is not good for your lens.
the thumb screws are made of a tough nylon for a reason they do not damage the metal mount on the lens.
if you have an impact using iron bolts it will cause a ripple wave through the optic and you will end up with pressure separation on the back optic.
ruining optical quality and resale value.
calotherm make the finest optical cloths and caloclear lens cleaner.
nothing better even zeiss use them as do panavision.
they do a lot of relabel work for some of the best companies around.
#6
Posted 17 August 2012 - 09:57 PM
Oh, also . . . has anyone replaced the ungainly-long plastic screws in the Redstan clamps with some small female hex ones? I'm thinking of trying to do this. having them stick out is a pain, I'm afraid because they're elastic I'll end up breaking them off.
I just took a pair of snips and trimmed up the plastic screws on the Redstan clamp, works a treat!
#7
Posted 17 August 2012 - 11:18 PM
calotherm make the finest optical cloths and caloclear lens cleaner.
nothing better even zeiss use them as do panavision.
they do a lot of relabel work for some of the best companies around.
Thanks Tony.
Just made a purchase. I have had some terrible results from generic lens cleaning wipes. always leave a residue. I like to touch lenses as little as possible and having to remove the droplet residue using a dry cloth every time i clean the tokina atx has been a regular worry. It's such a strange coating on the tokina. like nothing else i have dealt with.
#8
Posted 10 September 2012 - 06:23 AM
#9
Posted 10 September 2012 - 11:46 PM
what is the problem?
#10
Posted 11 September 2012 - 10:49 PM
#11
Posted 12 September 2012 - 01:49 AM
exacta attracted some superb lens companies to work on the camera.
rodenstock in fact make the new hawk anamorphic.
like a lot of great optics companies they are not as famous as the big boys cos they made money form military contracts.
isco,kinoptik,angenieux,cooke taylor hobson,dallmeyer
rodenstock also where very famous in large and medium format optics
great reputation but just not that famous.
if you can find any cheap rodenstock m42 are rarer some of the others.
the heligon i have used very nice like a old 40s hollywood lens it is a classic double gauss design
but expensive now.
#12
Posted 13 September 2012 - 01:10 AM
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