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grey

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  • My cameras and kit
    samsung nx1, canon 5d Mark 3, samsung nx 3000

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  1. grey

    timecode freerun

    If I'm not wrong tentacle is not compatible with h265...so.My question is, if samsung can let go out a freerun timecode signal with the hdmi(as we can see in the camera menu), there is a way to write this timecode in the files of the camera with the hack mode?(Vasile or Kino)
  2. grey

    timecode freerun

    no way to obtain a timecode freerun in camera?It could be better for sync an external audio(I know that I will neve be perfect in frame sync with an external audio recorder but I can be more precise than a file with the only duration od the video)
  3. and without glitch?(I would like to know if is a problem of the firmware or the camera)
  4. i've to solve(now the only way is set it in preset external or tungsten... i 've tried this morning an a7s2...the only interesting thing is the iso capabilities...the other thing...I've to say that nothing is better than my nx1...and I've discovered that in 100fpss it crops a t 2.2!!!!!XD...
  5. no s..t it's glitching again with 1.40...:( only with manual wb kelvin grades now I will post 2 frames From green to purple(it can be noticed in white part of the frame:( SAM_0645b079.tif SAM_0645b080.tif
  6. it is exact the same.Now I've tried to reinstall the newest firmware(1.41) with no result.And now I've solved with the old firmware 1.40(probably I've to test it again)
  7. no result...I try to downgrade at 1.40
  8. I've noticed that during my last video sometimes the white balance "glitch".I've the latest firmware.I've chosen the manual wb(with kelvin grades).all full manual and nothing selected as automatic.Some one as noticed it too?(now I try to reinstall the firmware again.
  9. Gh5, a7s2, i know that i m totaly crazy but...last week...i've buyed another nx1 body with...16-50 2-2.8...all of the other cameras have somenthing better than my sam...but..i really love the image that i can obtain with this "old" piece of electronic...
  10. I've solved with...iffmpeg..I know isn't free, but I think that is the best solution and it's a very well done conversion software
  11. Here a quick test were you can see something.Of course the light is quite shitty, but the day out was horrible (a lot of rain)... It's made with my vintage lens m42 Takumar smc 35-50-200 mm.I think that if we want to test possible purple fringe we have to use a newer lens(my takumar has just purple fringe without the adapter...so..)As you can see the increase of light is really good and the sharpness too, in all of the frame for me(I ve to make some test at work with a grade 1 monitor for really better result). I've noticed a little flou effect on 50mm takumar at 2.8 f..I've to investigate better because I'm not sure that is the adapter. All the clips are taken with a tripod in the same position. I will post the camera setting later, and a wetransfer link with the original files(this are converted in h264 from Premiere cc ...sorry but I've to work again this evening, I hope that this will be useful for someone! p.s. when I have buied the adapter from Luca I've to tell that I was thinking..."why I've to spend all of this money for a simple piece of metal with a lens ...when I've see the piece I've understood that the construction is really complicated(if Luca want, I can post some detail of the adapter..) Grey
  12. I'm sorry but I'm out for work until tomorrow...I will make some video test on Monday!But I've to say that I've make a little superficial test and I can say that is really sharp..and...for sure we gain something like a stop(more or less)And the construction is really really well done!
  13. Arrived!!!in the next days i will post some video test!
  14. Hi Guys,I have installed Sierra and i'can't use RMC anymore(I'm using the last version)for convert my nx 1 files, when I open the app i can see only this screen.., anybody have some suggestion?TKS!
  15. This is from Aputure...but is for micro 4/3...but...if we change the rear flange, of course the distance between the lens and the sensor must be adjusted, but we will control the aperture and the focus...probably or it's complete a stupid thing?(and it's a focal reducer too)
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