EOSHD

Welcome to the EOSHD forum. The knowledge-base for all mirrorless, DSLR and pro video cameras.

Subforums

  1. ANAMORPHIC

    The largest online community devoted to anamorphic filmmaking.
    Discuss lenses, adapters, workflows and post lenses for sale

    13,965
    posts
  2. BLACKMAGIC CINEMA CAMERAS

    Raw shooting cameras - URSA Mini 4.6K, BMCC, BMPCC and more

    2,283
    posts
  3. SHOOTING

    Screening room and the creative side of filmmaking - share your ideas / stories

    2,600
    posts
  4. SAMSUNG NX1 / NX500 HACK

    Discuss the NX1 hack and more. Share your mods. Share your tests.

    2,647
    posts
  5. GEAR FOR SALE

    Post classified ads for your camera gear and filmmaking related kit!

    699
    posts

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EOSHD C-LOG and Film Profiles for All Canon DSLRs
The EOSHD Panasonic GH4 Shooter's Guide
The EOSHD Samsung NX1 Setup Guide
The EOSHD Sony A7R II Setup Guide and LUT Pack
The EOSHD Anamorphic Shooter's Guide - Second Edition
The EOSHD 5D Mark III Raw Shooter's Guide
The EOSHD Sony A7 Series Guide to Full Frame Lenses

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  • Posts

    • Canon 6D vs 5D MkIII vs 7D MkII for filming with EOSHD C-Log
      Yeah, people claim to get 1.25-1.5 hours E out of it, but I never saw that. Of course, to be fair, I was using Wasabi batteries and it was blazing hot when I was using it... if heat makes a difference. But, I used the same batteries, in the same weather, with my XC10 and I'm getting 1.5-2 hours out of them and that's with a screen at its brightest with 5-Axis turned on. The other big issue I had with the Micro is the required rigging. Obviously, you need a screen, but the screen turns a camera the size of Rubick's Cube into Frankenstein's monster. And since my style of filmmaking is more slow burn, I attack principal photography like it's B-Unit. So a lot of run and gun shooting where I am the crew. So, I would shoot a couple shots at one location and then load up the truck and head 5-10 minutes down the road for the next. With the cumbersome rig, I was forced to break it down in between locations, and that gets old quick. And then finally lens options. At the time all I owned was vintage, full frame lenses or vintage c-mounts. I had no interest in a speedbooster, so I was primarily using c-mounts. The 25mm Voigtlander was the best combo I used with it, but I sold it to help offset the costs of the monitor and the camera.  Like I said, I probably should have bought a pocket and used it out of box with the 12-35mm OIS Panasonic handheld, and/or c-mounts with a monopod. I just hate the thought of paying a grand for a camera that cost $500 2 years ago.  But it's my own fault, Zak warned everyone that if you prefer the DSLR form factor then you won't like the Micro. At the time, I didn't realize how much I liked the DSLR form factor. I've actually come so full circle that I prefer DSLRs now to even smaller mirrorless cameras. But even now, I'll go back and look at some of my clips and I am mind blown every time. The ProRes alone is freaking amazing. And the Raw 3:1 is just insane. I shoot a lot of footage in the woods (horror type of stuff) and the difference Raw makes with foliage and tree bark is insane compared to any modern consumer price equivalent.  Btw, have you ever used the Pocket with a native lens? Am curious to know how that focus button works.
    • Zhiyun Crane Test
      So my problems were, 1) The same thing that jonpais mentioned. The axis is slightly off so I had to recalibrate 2) The panning is jarring on default settings and needed to be tweaked. It's right at the start of a pan that it looks jarring I moved the setting to 80 and it seems to have helped 3) The last biggest problem for me was that all I carry with me at shoots is a laptop and a iphone 4. I know it's old tech, but it can't load the app for the gimbal settings. I even had a windows tablet on me and that didn't have an app either so I was stuck until after my shoot which is a bit too late. So to get around this I tried not to pan which sucks. 4) The other thing is that it would be great if the camera were mountable from the other side (having the arm on the left). This way I could at least swap cards and possible batteries without having to change rebalance while on a shoot. I tried to mount from the opposite side, but the pan stopped working. Not sure what is wrong here... I am not sure what the weight is, but I have a Sony 28mm f2 on an a7sii and than a video quick release system and it doesn't seem to have any problems. If I add a larger lens it does have problems. I also did another test with IBIS on and off and it definitely needs ibis.  Other than that, I would say that if you are having trouble balancing with the gimbal. It's about 20 times more difficult to balance with a steadicam in my opinion if not more. Throw in some wind and it becomes exponentially difficult with a steadicam. There is a shot in my test of a man's back shooting towards the city. That was in very strong wind and the stabilizer barely budged. Can I see the footage? Are you saying the panning is bouncy? Because if so, set the panning to lower in the menu system and it should help...
    • SLR Magic Rangefinder footage - kiss goodbye to focus breathing / Kowa anamorphic goes single focus
      Are you sure the Rectilux would give you the same distortion. Sounds like the Rangefinder is gonna drive you nuts, because you'll always know how much better your footage will look without it.
    • Lenses
      Well... concerning somewhat wide lenses... to throw a couple more in the mix... The 15mm f/1.7 Panaleica (that DJI uses as kitlens) is still something I'd like to get myself! Olympus still has the pretty mean 12mm f/2. Kowa does a 12mm, so does SLR Magic, but I can't remember if these two were any good. Veydra has a 12 and 16mm. If you were to shoot BMPCC... the Kiev-16U 12.5mm f/2 or Zenit Optar S16 might just do the trick?
    • Canon 5d Mark IV Video
      shot only using touchscreen autofocus