EOSHD

Welcome to the EOSHD forum. The knowledge-base for all mirrorless, DSLR and pro video cameras.

Subforums

  1. ANAMORPHIC

    The largest online community devoted to anamorphic filmmaking.
    Discuss lenses, adapters, workflows and post lenses for sale

    7,728
    posts
  2. BLACKMAGIC CINEMA CAMERAS

    Raw shooting cameras - URSA Mini 4.6K, BMCC, BMPCC and more

    973
    posts
  3. SHOOTING

    Screening room and the creative side of filmmaking - share your ideas / stories

    1,646
    posts
  4. SAMSUNG NX1 / NX500 HACK

    Discuss the NX1 hack and more. Share your mods. Share your tests.

    1,428
    posts

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The EOSHD Panasonic GH4 Shooter's Guide
The EOSHD Samsung NX1 Setup Guide
The EOSHD Sony A7R II Setup Guide and LUT Pack
The EOSHD Anamorphic Shooter's Guide - Second Edition
The EOSHD 5D Mark III Raw Shooter's Guide
The EOSHD Sony A7 Series Guide to Full Frame Lenses

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  • Posts

    • Your ideal NX1 Settings
      In my quest to find a way to get the Picture Profiles off the NX1 into LUTs so I can easily apply them to my RAW images which wont carry over the JPEG settings has led me to a road that is not very easy, I almost punched my laptop screen trying to figure out I could do it by using the Digital Camera Profile which turned out to be a nightmare. I then just went straight to SpeedGrade and did a ColorMatch and I am actually surprised with how well it works, now I realised I screwed up the white balance on some shots because I only intended to see if the first method would work at all or if I had to go down the grading road, I plan on putting the ColourChecker on a better lit scene and use a white card or grey card for white balance, so the camera gets proper whites/greys with no colour cast from lights but as you can see, the colours really did change and they match the ColourChecker with exception of some white balance issues but that is an easy fix.  Both Retro and Vivid have the following settings: R1.00 G0.95 B1.00 | 0 Sat | -10 Sharp | 0 Contr | 0 Hue Left regular 28MP RAW from Samsung NX1 with my early Picture Profile Retro LUT applied, to the right an actual out-camera JPEG with Picture Profile - Retro Left regular 28MP RAW from Samsung NX1 with my early Picture Profile Vivid LUT applied, to the right an actual out-camera JPEG with Picture Profile - Vivid Test on some random JPEG's out the NX1: Left Retro - Right Vivid (Original JPEG was post processed)   Why bother when you can just shoot these in camera and use the JPEG's? Well for some of us the JPEG's are not that good and there is still a lot of blacks being crushed and not a as much overexposure you can pull back, my main reason for a LUT of each Picture Profiles from the NX1 is because they are beautiful and I want to use them with my RAW images but they are also a great asset for video!  If you want higher dynamic range you can shoot flat and then apply a Picture Profile LUT and get the same colours without having to grade the image and only adjust the basic corrections like contrast, saturation, brightness and white balance. Which for some of us can save a lot of time. Another reason is that people here have already posted some very interesting settings to use which have some superb results, making a LUT out of it to apply to the image in an instant would be great instead of having to think very hard which one you want to use because its going to stay instead you can select which one you prefer for that scene. I currently only use the out the camera colours as base with no picture profile, I might also try to make the entire set for the GammaDR so you wont have to apply like 15 contrast settings just to get the colours back and the colour science is usually different for each base. If people have better methods for this I would love to hear them because this was the best method I could find, in the end I have to manually create these and not as simply as just shoot a picture and pull the information out and throw it in a LUT container.
    • Reminded how great GH4 can be...
      The GH4 appears to be sharper 4K vs. the A7S II. I used to prefer the GH4 colors for skintones vs. the A7S, however the A7S II with SGamut3.cine and Slog2 or Cine2 gamma has better skintones vs. the GH4 (Natural or Portrait). Post-sharpening the A7S II looks similar to the GH4. I recently did a test trying to get the GH4 (Portrait) to match the A7S II for skintones (SGamut3.cine and Slog2/Cine2)- couldn't do it in a reasonable amount of time (colors seemed limited, perhaps related to DR, like comparing near-B&W to color). The GH4 footage looked very nice and detailed, however the colors were very limited compared to the A7S II. Cranking up the saturation or vibrance didn't help. I use the ARRI Alexa SL profile Input LUT in Lumetri (PP CC) to get really nice skintones with the A7S II and SGamut3.cine+Slog2+16 Saturation (exposed 1.7 over). This combo is so nice for skintones, as good or better than 5D3 RAW, along with 4K, amazing DR, and tiny files. Doing a multicam shoot with the C300 II soon, it should match very well (static cameras; the A7S II has poor RS compared to the C300 II, and of course very poor AF compared to the C300 II's PDAF (A7R II's PDAF is much better than the A7S II's)). I wanted to use the GH4 for another camera angle, next I'll try the old A7S or FS700. Without doing comparisons, the GH4 is a nice compact 4K camera, especially for outdoor, well-lit shots. With the Voigtlander 25mm F.95, it's not too shabby in lower light shots.
    • New Canon 1DX Mkii Footage
      Firstly ,prepare about 30 CFast cards for daily use,because that 800Mbps Mjpeg codec makes huge file size
    • Reminded how great GH4 can be...
      Looking forward to seeing the video.
    • Blackmagic URSA Mini - $2995 - official thread
      At what resolution can it do 120fps? Never mind found it buried in the text of the BMD site. Its 1080p.