EOSHD

Welcome to the EOSHD forum. The knowledge-base for all mirrorless, DSLR and pro video cameras.

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  1. ANAMORPHIC

    The largest online community devoted to anamorphic filmmaking.
    Discuss lenses, adapters, workflows and post lenses for sale

    13,500
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  2. BLACKMAGIC CINEMA CAMERAS

    Raw shooting cameras - URSA Mini 4.6K, BMCC, BMPCC and more

    2,227
    posts
  3. SHOOTING

    Screening room and the creative side of filmmaking - share your ideas / stories

    2,444
    posts
  4. SAMSUNG NX1 / NX500 HACK

    Discuss the NX1 hack and more. Share your mods. Share your tests.

    2,015
    posts
  5. GEAR FOR SALE

    Post classified ads for your camera gear and filmmaking related kit!

    499
    posts

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The EOSHD Panasonic GH4 Shooter's Guide
The EOSHD Samsung NX1 Setup Guide
The EOSHD Sony A7R II Setup Guide and LUT Pack
The EOSHD Anamorphic Shooter's Guide - Second Edition
The EOSHD 5D Mark III Raw Shooter's Guide
The EOSHD Sony A7 Series Guide to Full Frame Lenses

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  • Posts

    • A6300, Flat profile other than slog
      Lower the sharpness number to -3 isn't softening the image, its removing part of the in camera sharpening.  its tried and true tested that adding sharpness in post gives much better results than doing it in camera.
       
    • My Review of the Zheyun Crane 3-Axis Gimbal
      Ok, a review unit dropped in my mail today. But first let me say this:
      I know diddely squat about gimbals. I really don't pay any attention to them. In my work world a gimbal shot is like a drone shot or under water, in other words, something special that you use for a purpose and then you rent or borrow the gear + crew that are good at it.
      In my hobby and youtube world Im far to in love with proper camera shakes that I dont want to get rid of them.
      Of my +200 youtube clips 0 are done with a gimbal and maybe 2 clips in total have stabilization in post. Moving on.
      With that little disclaimer out of the way, I will know share my experience with this thing and be as honest as I can.
      And also do the best I can to give it an honest chance and learn how to use it. Even though I, at this time, dont feel any need to have one of these.
      Would be even more fun then if I turn out to really like using it. And YOU can contribute with questions that you want me to find out and that can be used in a review, since I dont really know what people want to know. First Impression It comes in a normal box, all the specs and such is written in english. So is the manual.
      Rather surprising is the nice and sturdy "pellicase" that all the stuff is well secured and foamed in. I have roll of T-Max in a stand develop so I might not be able to do more than look at it today. Also my BMPCC isn't here today and I think my GM1 is to light.
      The general feel is that its well made. It feels sturdy, all the joints are smooth, mostly metal and the plastic also feels nice. Here is some info:
      Weight without battery: 950g
      Payload Minimum: 350g Maximum: 1200g
      Battery run-time: 6-12h
      360 degrees on Tilt, Roll and Pan. It can apparently feel every 0.02 degree change interval (what ever that is).
      Claim to be the first handheld gimbal with CCI (camera control interface) to control focus and shutter.
      Tool-less.
      Can be controlled via smartphone.
      First with three 32-bit MCUs running parallel at 4k hertz, "The number is far beyond reach of any other gimbal" (sounds pretty cool I guess, a bit nerdy but cool  )
      Lastly some other long paragraph about degrees ad milliseconds... sounds swell. Thats it, need to rinse my film. Will update as soon as I have it running and maybe a test shot.




         
    • Shooting on an old and cheap SD camera to make feel like 8mm or 16mm
      Looks pretty good. If you're gonna go for a vintage 8mm or 16mm-style look, I would reckon that an older CCD camera like a DVX100 or an XL2 would be a better place to start than trying to turn shiny full-frame DSLR footage into Kodachrome. These cameras always had really crisp motion cadence (which is why in film school, I always picked a Canon XL2 over newer HD cameras with CMOS sensors), and the smaller sensors do a better job at replicating the deeper depth-of-field of 8mm and 16mm cameras. If you really want to get old-school, dig up a 35mm depth-of-field adapter like a Letus or a Red Rock M2 and throw it on. Grain for dayyyzz....
    • Your ideal NX1 Settings
      @Parker and @ricardo_sousa11  You guys are really showcasing what this camera can do.  My videos are not quite at that level yet, so keep sharing your latest settings with us all!  We will keep posting our latest videos.     @August McCue Great video...I watched it less from a critical perspective and just as someone trying to "re-live" the day...I would be quite happy if my wedding video came out that good 
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